Thibault Liger-Belair : Vieilles Vignes 2021

Characteristics and tasting advice for Thibault Liger-Belair “Vieilles Vignes” 2021

Tasting

Color
The color shows a deep ruby hue.

Nose
The nose reveals a complex aromatic range dominated by red and black fruits: blueberry, black cherry and raspberry. Spicy notes of pepper and aromatic herbs round out the bouquet, along with a mineral freshness brought by the granitic terroir.

Palate
On the palate, the wine displays remarkable structure, with a full-bodied feel without heaviness. The striking freshness of the granitic soils comes through clearly, supported by tannins that are present yet perfectly integrated. The finish is notably long, with an elegant balance between fruit and structure.

Food and wine pairings

This Moulin-à-Vent pairs harmoniously with a wide variety of dishes. It is a perfect match for herb-roasted poultry, coq au vin, confit duck, or bœuf bourguignon. Braised pork, sausages, and game dishes such as hare stew also find an ideal partner here. On a cheese board, opt for Comté, Saint-Marcellin, Camembert or Époisses. More surprisingly, this wine can also be paired with grilled salmon served with a mustard sauce, or hearty vegetarian dishes such as ratatouille and roasted mushrooms.

Serving and cellaring

Moulin-à-Vent “Vieilles Vignes” 2021 is best enjoyed at a temperature between 13 and 16°C. A short aeration of 15 to 20 minutes in the glass allows the aromas to open fully. This wine will keep optimally for around 5 to 10 years, gradually developing more complex aromas and earthy notes characteristic of great Moulin-à-Vent.

An outstanding Moulin-à-Vent from old vines in Beaujolais

The estate

Established in 2001 by Thibault Liger-Belair, the namesake estate embodies three centuries of Burgundian winegrowing heritage. Based in Nuits-Saint-Georges in Côte de Nuits, the estate spans around 7 hectares in Bourgogne and expanded in 2009 into Beaujolais with the creation of Domaine des Pierres Roses in Moulin-à-Vent. Thibault Liger-Belair, who took over the family estate at age 26 after comprehensive training in viticulture and oenology, applies a decidedly modern production philosophy focused on a deep understanding of terroir. Recognized in 2024 as one of France’s fifty best winegrowers, he has practiced organic and biodynamic viticulture since 2004, prioritizing attentive vineyard work and gentle winemaking. The estate stands out for its innovative approach, notably with a cellar inaugurated in 2017 that runs entirely on solar and geothermal energy.

The vineyard

This Moulin-à-Vent “Vieilles Vignes” comes from nine plots totaling 7 hectares at Domaine des Pierres Roses, forming a ring around the Moulin-à-Vent hill. The vines, planted between 1910 and 1955, were therefore between 66 and 111 years old at the time of the 2021 harvest. The shallow soil is composed mainly of white and pink sands from the breakdown of pink granite and quartz, characteristic of the Moulin-à-Vent terroir. This granitic composition gives the wine its distinctive mineral freshness. The vineyard is farmed organically and biodynamically, with horse plowing and the complete elimination of herbicides. Sun-facing exposure and plateau winds contribute to the exceptional quality of the grapes.

The vintage

The 2021 vintage proved particularly challenging in Beaujolais. An unusually mild winter triggered early budbreak, followed in early April by polar cold spells dropping to -5°C, damaging two-thirds of the buds in some plots. The cool, rainy spring required meticulous management of treatments against downy mildew. June brought the long-awaited sunshine and warmth, but late July saw a few worrying storms. Fortunately, August saved the vintage with lasting warm, dry conditions, allowing Gamay to ripen gently. Moderate rainfall in September continued through to the harvest, which began on September 14, around ten days later than average. Despite these challenges, sustained work in the vineyards, strict grape sorting, and gentle extraction produced wines with bright colors, delightful red-fruit aromas and silky textures, underpinned by an elegant freshness.

Winemaking and aging

The Moulin-à-Vent “Vieilles Vignes” 2021 grapes were harvested by hand, with 40% whole clusters. Fermentation takes place in open vats over three weeks with very gentle extraction, in keeping with the estate’s philosophy of infusing rather than extracting. Aging is carried out in oak foudres for 15 months, using non-new wood in line with the estate’s standards, which rarely employ more than 50% new oak. This delicate approach allows the tannins to integrate harmoniously without over-extraction. The wine is neither fined nor filtered, preserving its integrity and natural complexity. The barrels come from three selected coopers, using wood seasoned for three years before being made into barrels to achieve softer, more delicate tannins.

Grape variety

100% Gamay