Allegrini : Riserva Fieramonte 2016

A cooler year in a recent context. This cuvée (single vineyard) was made from 1965 to 1985, before the vineyard was infected with esca. The vineyard was then rejuvenated and the Fieramonte was revived from 2011. A rich, avuncular, throaty wine after four years in 225L barriques. The grapes are dried for 130–140 days, which is very long, even in the context of the region. Loads of residual sugar at the initial spontaneous fermentation, before inoculation drags it to a palate-staining dryness. A big wine loaded with extract, dark fruits, menthol and anise. Very impressive. Drink or hold.

Bright, intense ruby red. Fragrant and expressive nose, with notes of ripe blackberries, dried plums, cinnamon stick, oak, milk chocolate, raisins and dried rose petals. On the palate, a wonderful finesse and elegance, a lovely viscous texture, enveloping, tightly woven, with punchy tannins, crescendoing to a savoury finish.

The 2016 is bold on the opening with concentrated blackberry aromas giving way to macerated Bing cherries all coated in allspice, vanilla and hint of savory spices. As the wine develops, drying violets and dark-earth notes waft up. The palate is full in body with concentrated baked plums with cocoa and chalk finishing with firm tannins and lifted acidity. Drink 2028–2050.