Anselmo Mendes : Curtimenta 2019

The 2019 Curtimenta is all Alvarinho, aged for nine months in used French oak after fermentation with 24 hours of skin contact. It comes in at 12.8% alcohol, just under 1.5 grams of residual sugar and 5.6 of total acidity. This is completely different in style than Mendes's Parcela Única, its long-time sibling as an upper-level wine. Feeling deeper than I expected, at least in terms of mouthfeel, it adds predictable grip on the finish and handles the wood very well. It's a big white table wine that is best suited to food pairings rather than simple porch sipping. In fact, this year’s Parcela Única is far more elegant and less stern, if a touch oakier. This certainly changes what you might think Vinho Verde is supposed to be. At the moment, it seems exceptional. It should age well, but it drinks nicely now too. If I had a quibble, it wasn’t quite as impressive the next day.

Partial skin contact and then wood aging for nine months has produced a rich, smoothly textured Alvarinho. This wine is luscious, with a smoky edge from the wood and mature white fruits that sing with ripe flavors. Drink the wine now.