Bollinger : RD Récemment Dégorgé 2008

Disgorged in October 2024 with a dosage of three grams per liter, the 2008 Extra-Brut R.D. is superb, offering a bouquet of Granny Smith apple, pomelo and almond paste, mingled with white sandwich bread and oystershell. The medium- to full-bodied palate reveals a deep, vibrant core of fruit, underpinned by racy acidity and framed by high levels of structuring dry extract that assert themselves on the sapid, precise finish. This is a brilliant wine, built to age gracefully on its acidity, and it stands as one of the greatest achievements of the vintage. Its lower dosage, to my palate, also gives it the edge over La Grande Année in terms of energy and aromatic definition.

This focused Champagne is all about the graceful definition of power, with an up-front, austere edge to the steely acidity, which is softened by the fine, plush mousse and well-integrated with the rich profile. Toasted hazelnut, crystallized honey, peach skin and nectarine flavors expand on the palate, accented by hints of ground ginger, oyster shell and preserved lemon, with a racy streak of salinity that drives the mouthwatering finish. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Disgorged October 2022. Drink now through 2038. 300 cases imported.

So many dried-apple, grapefruit and buttery-croissant aromas follow through to a full body with density and richness, showing baking spices and pie crust. Turns fresh and vivid at the end with incredible acidity that contrasts the ripe fruit and electrifies your palate. 71% pinot noir and 29% chardonnay. Disgorged October 2024. Drink now.

71% Pinot Noir, 29% Chardonnay. Deliberately released only a few months after disgorgement to preserve freshness. Launched in the UK with great fanfare – or at least bagpipes, from the pipe band of the London Scottish regiment both outside and inside Spencer House in London. The excuse being that Lily Bollinger was a quarter Scottish. Bottle disgorged October 2022 Lightly smoky nose and extremely tense with some of the mushroom notes that are so characteristic of mature Bollinger. (Though hazelnuts were chosen as the overriding character and theme of the launch dinner by chef de cave Denis Bunner.) Still extremely youthful though it did open out in the glass, auguring well for bottle development.Magnum disgorged November 2022 Perhaps unexpectedly this was much more opulent and expressive on the nose than the bottle – much more flattering and less demanding. Though still there is piercing acidity and the whole is beautifully long and complete. Bollinger have always thought magnums the ideal size, better than bottles or jeroboams.Jeroboam Even paler and with a drier finish. (JR)

The 2008 Champagne R.D. Extra Brut is chiseled, powerful, and layered with a chalky mineral texture. Made from 70% Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay, with 3 grams per liter dosage, it pours a bright straw-yellow hue, while its aromatics are more mineral-tinged and feel a touch more noble and upright in character. On the nose, it opens to notes of toasted almond, preserved Meyer lemon, brothy salinity, and vibrant fresh fruit. Showing both tension and grace, it has the richness of Bollinger yet is more upright, with an electric mineral energy coursing through a finish that lasts for days. Mouthwatering and long, it’s a stunner. It needs more time to harmonize all its components, but this is a wine to cellar for the ages, and I think this will be a vintage of RD we’ll talk about for a very, very long time. Cellar it if you can and drink 2026–2056. Disgorged December 2022.