Decanter
A masterclass in purity and delicacy for this 2020 vintage, which manages to convey the beauty and allure of Yquem in a toned-down, subtle and beguiling way. Aromas of white blossom and honeysuckle, gently caramelised Mirabelle plums and fresh apricots with flecks of clementine and grapefruit pith abound on the nose—richly scented in their individual aspects but delivered quietly, almost sultry and shy. Immediately mouthfilling and unctuous, streamlined and fresh, with a sugary hit arriving first before mouthwatering acidity follows, giving sumptuous succulence and vibrancy. Apricot, peach, fleshy mango and sharp pineapple bring an exotic fruit zing, balanced by a salty, flinty edge that adds fine angles to the expression. Juicy, bright, clean and complete, with hints of cinnamon spice and just-toasted bread providing the frame and structure, reminding you that this is built to last. It’s not as opulent as some vintages, much more understated and relaxed—and, coincidentally, one of the lowest in residual sugar at 135 g/l—but this is a wonderful expression showing control and confidence. It also has superb drinkability even now, with tension, clarity and energy, so don’t be afraid to open and enjoy it in its joyful youth.
The 2020 is the smallest production since 2000, with the equivalent of 35,000 bottles made. All stock will be released for sale on 23rd March, with only a small number of bottles kept back for the estate’s library collection. pH 3.79. The vintage was challenging in terms of viticulture, with tropical spring-like weather delivering early budburst and high mildew pressure, especially given it was the estate’s first year of official organic conversion. June was wet and cool, followed by a hot, dry summer. Botrytis arrived in mid-October, but there was only a small window of five days and two separate passes to harvest grapes with perfect noble rot.