Château Durfort-Vivens 2021

Superb, beguiling aromatics of flowers and berries, with mineral notes; slowly unfolds unheard-of depth, thanks to the sheer class of mineral-silky, exceptionally fine-grained tannins, immense density and endless length; the pure expression of berry and terroir – glorious.

The 2021 Durfort Vivens has turned out well in bottle, offering up aromas of dark berries and plums mingled with notions of pencil shavings and vanilla pod. Medium to full-bodied, layered and lively, it exhibits impressive depth and sweetness of fruit, not only for the vintage but also for a blend dominated by fully 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, concluding with a long, precise finish.

Bright red berries on the nose—strawberry and raspberry—softly fragrant with rose petal, violets and dark chocolate scents. Succulent and really delicately juicy, the perfume wraps the berries on the palate with a soft chalky minerality coming through from the acidity. Lovely balance; this is fresh and so alive yet deeply flavored, with abundant mint markers from the Cabernet (97% of the blend). Delicious and vibrant, still with youthful energy and a precise tannic structure providing the frame. You can tell they achieved maturity, but also perfect extraction, giving just the right weight without bitterness or any harsh tannins—and exceptional length bringing an abundance of freshness. Total Margaux glamour on show in a vintage where it was harder to find than usual. A surefire must-buy! 30th vintage by Gonzague Lurton. A yield of 35 hl/ha. Ageing in 70% new oak barrels and 30% amphoras.

A pretty and layered red with cedar, crushed stones, mushrooms and pine needles. Medium-bodied and creamy. Excellent finish. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.

Red currants and cassis with a touch of flowers are in the nose. Medium-bodied, bright, fresh and juicy, there is a crispness to the red berries on the crunchy palate. The wine is a blend of 97% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Merlot, representing the highest percentage of Cabernet ever placed in the blend in the history of the property. 12.9% ABV. Drink from 2024-2039. 91-93

Dark ruby, purple reflections, subtle brightening on the rim. An inviting bouquet with dark, sweet cherries, delicately underlaid with notes of nougat, hints of cassis and raspberries. Juicy and elegant, red berries, a fresh structure, mineral notes and a good, persistent finish. A finesse-rich food wine with good development and definite ageing potential.

97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot, 35 hl/ha. Playful bouquet, beguiling iris scent, blueberry contours, liquorice and cooled wild-berry tea. On the finely structured palate with a silky texture, granular extract, supporting minerality, a tightly woven tannic frame, gripping with an athletic body. In the concentrated finish, red plums, Alpine blueberry and dark granular graphite like fine magnesium pearls. Very classically styled and endowed with good ageing potential.

Kunz barrel sample 2022: (organic, 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot) Mineral, powerful, fresh, delicately vegetal bouquet, raspberries, cherries, chalk, slate. Densely woven, elegant, fresh palate with plenty of fine tannins, a finely concentrated, muscular structure, delicate, subtly creamy fruit, diverse, fresh aromatics, long, fine finish with sweet after-flavors.

(Organic, 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot) Mineral, powerful, fresh bouquet with delicate vegetal notes, raspberries, cherries, chalk, slate. Densely woven, elegant, fresh palate with plenty of fine tannins, a finely concentrated, muscular structure, fine, delicately creamy fruit, varied, fresh aromatics, and a long, fine finish with sweet aftertones. 18/20 2029 - 2055

You’ll find several Cabernet-dominant blends in classified Médoc estates in 2021, like this near-100% example (97%, with a slice of Merlot that was affected by both fruit set and frost). It translates into an attractive deep plum colour, with violet reflections, and a purity to the blueberry and raspberry fruits, far removed from the solar aromatics we have got used to. Cool-vintage signatures abound with undergrowth and liquorice bud, and similarities to good vintages of the 1980s in terms of balance and tannic frame. I have been a huge fan of Durfort in recent years, and this has plenty of potential for ageing. Plenty of adapting in the vineyard to achieve this result, including leaving grass and cereal cover throughout to increase water stress. Eric Boissenot consultant. 35 hl/ha yield. Harvest from September 24 to October 21 (later even than 2010). 70% new oak and the rest amphoras.

With most of the Merlot having frozen, the 2021 grand vin is strongly driven by Cabernet (97%). It is therefore logically quite linear and taut, yet with plenty of class and definition. A wine with notes of red fruit, licorice, and spices.

The year 2021 was particularly harsh for Gonzague Lurton and his teams. The result they achieved offers a bit of comfort. Indeed, the freshness of Cabernet Sauvignon is enticing and the aromatic profile is complex and multifaceted. Thus, the bouquet shows depth while clearly indicating that the wine does not come from a warm vintage. Alongside nuances of eucalyptus and mint, it reveals scents of raspberry, elderberry and garrigue. Slender on the attack, the wine has muscle and tension. The tannins provide solid support, together with a mouthwatering acidic structure. A linear, precise Durfort Vivens that is in no way saturating—on the contrary, it invites another sip.

Durfort-Vivens persists and excels in crafting a wine focused on pure fruit. The nose leads us to the noble character of blackcurrant with a few notes of milk chocolate. The attack is very delicate; this is a considered, pampered, caressed wine. In addition to blackcurrant, the guiding thread is floral, with a dominant note of violet.

A core of crunchy blue and red fruits, with shimmering aromas of lovely summer flowers (dahlias). Effervescent with energy and life, the palate is also caressing and soft, inquisitive, with impressive density, and a generous future ahead.

95–97. Barrel Sample. Almost entirely Cabernet Sauvignon, the wine is seriously structured. Its fine berry flavors favor black currants with a firm backdrop of texture. It will be such a stylish, classical wine as it matures.