René Gabriel
“Certainly one of the most extraordinary wines we have ever made here. The most concentrated and, at the same time, one of the silkiest Château Margaux,” notes an obviously proud estate manager, Paul Pontallier. 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. Despite the high quality, 23% was declassified as the third wine. The Grand Vin, Château Margaux, accounts for 36% of the total harvest. Deep purple-garnet, dense at the core, with lilac glints at the rim. What defines a truly great Margaux? It’s the mulberries that in the bouquet often mingle with raspberries and a touch of cassis; here they appear in lavish measure. A nutty/nougat note sets off the interplay of licorice and fine oak; then come hints of prunes, cocoa beans, and freshly roasted coffee; the Cabernets are regal and noble without imposing too much force on the nose. The palate shows ample sweetness from perfectly ripe berries, a hint of honey and light malt, and very fine, delicate caramel traces from the barriques that melt over the extract. The astringency is rich, supportive, and already almost harmonized within the massive body. And yet, this is not an early charmer ready to please soon, because there is a lot of tannin to digest here—something that can easily take at least 10 years. But for that, this Margaux legend will be a wine for generations. In style, a blend between a more concentrated version of 1990 and a slightly richer 1983. P.S. Brochure comment: “Le 2009 est peut-être le plus grand Château Margaux jeune que nous avons goûté depuis 30 ans” (20/20). 13: Deep purple at the center, ruby rim. The bouquet opens with discreet wax notes, raspberries, lingonberries, almost creamy at first, at least milky; in the background, a lovely sweetness, with clearly defined fruit and plenty of freshness. Surprisingly approachable. On the palate, velvety texture, fairly ample, a superb fruit sweetness carried by generous extract, overall showing incredible intensity and thus an extremely long finish. In a way, this is quite the opposite of what is usually associated with the 2009 vintage profile. There is no comparison with older, truly great Château Margaux. Why? Because it is even better than all the young vintages tasted since 1982! So an absolute Margaux legend is taking shape for the coming decades. (20/20). 14: Extremely dark purple. You sense the great homogeneity right from the start, very ripe fruit notes from red to blue berries, dark caramel, rye bread, then smoke and currants. Silky flow, compact but not unapproachable. A colossal concentrate, yet not forbidding, with a very fine Amarone touch at its core; in the very long finish, you find dark fine woods. Paul Pontallier said, when we tasted the wine before lunch, that he would probably not live to see its full maturity and that its potential reached 100 years. (20/20). 21: Deep purple-garnet. Headily fruity bouquet mixing lingonberries, raspberries, mulberries, vanilla, and wax notes. It feels perfumed and offers a seamless sweetness. Despite being partially closed, it already delivers tremendously and, with its world-class aromas, also recalls a Richebourg and Masseto. On the palate, finesse and power. It shows the incomparable Margaux perfume of a special kind. In an intermediate peak of drinking pleasure. It would be a crying shame not to experience this feminine Margaux giant in this phase. (20/20)