Domaine Bruno Clair : Bonnes-Mares Grand cru 2022

This impressive wine is everything that one expects from Bonnes-Mares: deep, dark black plum and mulberry fruit with hints of mineral, smoke, and ground coffee; a fleshy, dense texture, abundant tannic grip, and impressive length. The grapes come from the domaine's 1.64 hectares of Bonnes-Mares, mostly in Morey-St-Denis, where the wines are known for power. This parcel is the earliest ripening of Clair's vineyards, with vines planted in 1945, 1967, and 1980. Give this five to 10 years before opening, and then enjoy over the next 20.

An extra dose of freshness in the Bonnes-Mares, with aromas combining violet, tonka bean and blackberry. Quite creamy, perfectly judged in its élevage yet still firm on its tannins on the finish, this extroverted wine, built around a very firm, sappy core, is destined for long aging.

A discreet bouquet at first, as if you had to retune your nose to breathe the rarefied air of high altitudes, even of paradise. Then the aromas begin to leap from the glass, like an overflowing picnic basket of fruit, charcuterie, jams and aromatic herbs. Rich and broad on the palate, with flavors deeply rooted in the earth, the wine unfolds across the palate. It leaves its mark with a long, savory finish, full of chew.