Domaine des Lambrays : Clos des Lambrays Grand cru 2022

Although the colour is not as deep as the 2019, the mulberry and plum fruit aromas are every bit as intense, with hints of violets, spice and earth. The texture is tightly wound and vigorous, with impressive density, tannic grip and length. 2022 was the fourth year of organic production, now certified, and the first made in the new winery. The grapes were picked from 1–6 September; 80% were fermented as whole clusters to produce another superb wine with immense ageing potential.

A stunning wine marked by finesse and delicacy. This is ethereal but also deep, with moss and mineral aromas followed by delicate yet naturally racy sweet berries, decadent roses, spices and forest floor. Almost full-bodied for a pinot, but this is much more about texture than anything else. Tense, round and elastic, with a ripe but minerally finish that expands at the end and goes on and on. Real depth in an airy, super-delicate way. 80% whole bunches and 20% new oak barrels. So good to drink now, but this is age-worthy and is likely to morph into something stunning in a decade.

Eleven different parcels from around the clos vinified and matured separately. Always assembled together as one lot. The vintage defines the character and yield of each. Cask sample. Dark-mid ruby. A different beast. Cassis, loganberry and blackberry on the nose and palate. Floral and vegetal notes, too – green freshness from the stems. Seductively ripe and full-bodied. Showing well today but will inevitably close. There’s real potency in this. Solid as a rock but so seductive, too. (MH)

80% whole-cluster fermentation and 20% new barrels in the grand cru; a perfumed wine with incredible textural delicacy, intense and pointillist right down to the goldsmith-like precision of its tannins: a soulful wine whose distinguished imprint lingers long.