Domaine Ponsot : Clos de la Roche Grand cru "Cuvée Vieilles Vignes" 2001

Ponsot's 2001 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes is going from strength to strength, and this bottle was showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with notes of red plums, smoked duck, cherries, spices, mustard seed and potpourri. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with chalky but melting tannins, tangy acids and a long, stony finish. Somewhat rustic in profile, it isn't the most elegant vintage of Ponsot's Clos de la Roche, but it's beginning to drink well today.

Aromas of ripe, plummy primary fruit with notes of mineral and earth. There is a less-prominent savoury element than one can often find from this era, and more sweetness to the fruit, almost as if touched with honey. The texture is velvety and full, with tannins and acidity holding strong. The vintage does not show the depth of flavour and complexity of top years, but it is holding well and will continue to age nicely for years.

The 2001 Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru was poured at a private dinner in London a few weeks after the tasting. I must admit to being disappointed with this showing. It lacks pedigree on the nose and is a little volatile compared to two other red Côte de Nuits that night. Likewise, the palate does not cohere at the first pour or over the following couple of hours. In fact, it becomes more acetic, and I end up not finishing my glass. This was just not a fecund period for Ponsot. Tasted at La Trompette in London.

A mature vintage, it needs a brief one-hour opening to express itself. Spicy finish with leathery notes, showing tertiary aromas yet retaining fresh fruit. Remarkably long.