Giant Steps : Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay 2021

This is made with fruit from the Sexton Vineyard, at 200 meters in altitude (80 meters higher than Tarraford). Within the vineyard, the clones are dominated by Gingin (brought over to Victoria by Phil Sexton), followed by Dijon clones, planted in the 1990s. The 2021 Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay is composed of 60% Gingin. Twenty percent of the parcels went through malolactic fermentation—clone 277 and some of the 96. This is salty as anything—a very good thing in my book—and the sheer intensity of flavor in the mouth is mouthwatering. Preserved lemon and grapefruit pith lace the edges of the mid-palate. Very smart—it has the Yarra precision of acid and streamlined phenolics, but it brings concentration of flavor and thrilling phenolics. Super smart wine.

Pure and focused, with a laser beam of lemon meringue, fleshy mandarin orange and orange sherbet showing incredible intensity and concentration. This remains light on its feet and focused, thanks to fresh acidity, with details of matcha and dried apricot for extra dimension on the finish. Drink now through 2027. 2,343 cases made, 200 cases imported.

A rich and textural Chardonnay with loads of ripe pear fruit and floral complexity. On the concentrated palate, this has a serious tannin structure and a bright mineral acidity that interlock very neatly. Long, generous, and complete finish. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Full screwcapped bottle, 1,578 g. Vineyard planted in 1997 with a mix of clones (mainly Gingin and Mendoza) at 130–210 m in Gruyere on grey clay/loam over granite/ironstone on north-facing slopes. Hand-picked in February with Giant Steps, for whom this vineyard is regarded as the best, reporting 2021 was ‘a spectacular year with every block and clone contributing to the final blend’. Whole-bunch pressed, juice transferred to barrel by gravity with no settling. Fermented in 500-l French puncheons. A small amount of bâtonnage and 20% malolactic conversion. Aged for 10 months in French oak (20% new). Being on the higher slopes, topsoil is thin and root systems have established themselves in shallow gravelly loams above a tough rocky clay base. Bunch yields are naturally low and skins are thick. TA 5.9 g/l. Complete nose with both mineral and citrus notes plus a hint of apple blossom. Still quite youthful but very promising. Markedly persistent with marked acidity but no shortage of fruit. Not austere but very far from fat. Neat and quite delicate. Fans out on the finish. They must be very pleased with this wine, from a hugely successful vintage. (JR)