M. Chapoutier : L'Ermite 2023

This has beguiling smoky, flinty, petrichor notes. There’s great energy, focus and salinity; it’s straight as an arrow. The tannins are pure, fine and fully ripe. Even in weaker vintages this cuvée performs, thanks to a great terroir. Unbelievable finesse and extraordinary tannic quality, so fine but so generous and textural. Seriously mineral; the acidity is perhaps just a touch low, but this is so engaging. 15% whole bunch.

A 3-ha plot at the top of the hill of Hermitage. 80-year-old vines on poor granitic soils. Certified organic and biodynamic. Cask sample. Black core with purple rim. The aroma is more layered here than on Le Pavillon. Dark and peppery but also beautifully scented with rich dark fruit and peony. Pure, intense and in perfect harmony already: chewy, dense and scented to the very end. There's immense power and elegance combined, both revealed even in such a young wine. Masses of energy even though it is rather soberly clothed at the moment. Very long finish. A step up from all the other Ermitage Hermitages. (JH)

The 2023 Ermitage L'Ermite showcases black cherry, black plum, spice box, cured meat and a cloud of graphite dust. Full-bodied, fresh and energetic, the 2023 nudges ahead of the 2021 I tasted two years ago, but cannot quite match the brilliant 2022 I tasted last year. Nonetheless, it's an extremely well-crafted and streamlined L'Ermite, finishing long and expansive.