Vasse Felix : Tom Cullity Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec 2019

The 2019 Tom Cullity Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec comes from a cool, wet season. While it wasn't as cold or as wet as 2017 before it, it could certainly be grouped in a similar category. And, as people are wont to do, the wines were compared to the great 2018 vintage that came before it and described as being two sides of the same coin—one warm and powerful and the other cool and refined. The truth is, both were excellent years, and this 2019 shows heightened floral perfume, fine tannins and an attractive graphite precision on the palate. Violets, bay leaf, tobacco, nori, dark chocolate and tapenade abound.

Elegant yet commanding, with juicy black cherry, blackberry and blueberry flavours, plus savoury Kalamata olive, dried rosemary and bay leaf notes. Reveals accents of cigar box and salted black liquorice that linger on the velvety, harmonious finish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Drink now through 2035. 900 cases made, 60 cases imported.

A dense and layered red with blackcurrants, mushroom, bark and forest flowers with hints of fresh sage. Medium-bodied with a pretty core of currants and sweet berries with hints of dried and fresh herbs. So creamy and polished in texture. Extremely long and persistent. Drinks wonderfully now. Savoury. A cabernet sauvignon and malbec blend. Own roots. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

The bold and chocolatey 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec Tom Cullity is rife with mulberry, blackberry and blackcurrant aromas laced with graphite and inky tones, with significant new oak sitting comfortably in the mix. Dense, with deep wells of dark-fruit flavour, this Margaret River wine retains impressive detail. The tannins are chewy and sturdy, underpinning a gravelly finish that goes on and on and on. It is in a holding pattern right now; all the pieces are waiting to unfold over at least a few decades.

This comparatively cool vintage of Vasse Felix's top red is beautifully perfumed and lucid, with pronounced savory, earthy aromas like beet root, tobacco and dried Mediterranean herbs and florals. They weave between bright, tangy currant fruit and soft mocha characters. The silky, slinky palate is expertly structured, the fine, talc-like tannins creeping in slowly, then taking over at the long finish. A gorgeous tightrope of power and elegance, and the epitome of class, this is a complete wine now but could age for several decades more.