William Fèvre : Chablis Grand cru "Bougros Côte Bouguerots" Domaine 2022

A ripe style, offering peach, apple and earth flavors, plus a hint of mint. The round profile is bisected by vivid acidity as this white fades to the graceful, oyster shell–inflected finish. Drink now. 100 cases imported.

The very steep aspect of Côte Bouguerots brings a much greater emphasis on minerality than Fevre's Bougros. This is a grand cru in every way—so much drive on the palate with plenty of extract, concentration, salinity, and length. Certain to age very well, yet surprisingly approachable early on. Didier Seguier says it’s likely to shut down after 18–24 months, but this is clearly a fine example with masses of potential.

The 2022 Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots Grand Cru offers scents of citrus fruit, sea spray and light fennel that gain intensity in the glass. The palate is tangy on the entry, with fine texture and orange rind and grapefruit notes to the fore. It does not quite have the tension or complexity of its peers, though it is a very decent Grand Cru that should age well for 15 to 20 years. Bottled under Diam 10. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.