Château Climens 2004

The 2004 Climens is beginning to open up nicely—no surprise given that this Barsac always needs a decade in bottle. The nose has a delicacy that is uncommon for a youthful Climens, unfurling with subtle scents of caramelized butter, dried honey, mint, and lemon thyme, yet it is immediately identifiable as Climens. The palate is viscous on entry, with Climens’ trademark spiciness lurking beneath the surface. This is very harmonious and focused—probably just beginning to enter its drinking plateau. I suspect it will never reach the heights of the 2001 or 2009, but it is a very commendable “second-tier” Climens. Drink now–2035. Tasted February 2014.

Shows apricot tart, with hints of candied lemons on the nose. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with lovely concentration and a lemony, spicy, almost flinty aftertaste. Impressive for the vintage. Very lively and zingy on the finish. Best after 2009.

The 2004 Climens has a strict bouquet that is overshadowed by the superior 2005, a little drier and more timid, candle wax and lanolin permeating the light honeyed fruit. The palate is better with quince, saffron, white pepper and a touch of chlorine. A little bitterness towards the finish lends freshness. Somewhat awkward, yet fascinating. Tasted at the Climens vertical at the château in April 2022.

Ready to go, the freshness here perks up the butterscotch, candied orange rind, tropical fruits, vanilla and apricot sensations. Never the most concentrated Sauternes, but always the most refined; this is really showing well today and could get even better with time.

Medium yellow with lime-green nuances, bright. Still rather closed, it feels a bit cool and shows vegetal notes, along with spicy botrytis and barely ripe apricots. On the palate, fine creamy fullness, but it lacks aromas and vibrancy; the finish shows subtle capsule notes.

148 grams of residual sugar, 4.1 acidity. Quite a pale, brilliant yellow. Delicate, very fine botrytis, perfumed and filigreed. On the palate, juicy, almost light, showing a well-supporting, refreshing acidity, focused length. (18/20). 10: Medium yellow, linden-green nuances, luminous. Still rather closed, seems somewhat cool with herbal notes, spicy botrytis, barely ripe apricots. On the palate, fine volume, creamy, lacks a bit of aromatics and play, discreet capsule notes on the finish.

Fresh, fragrant, fruity bouquet with apricot, almond, vanilla and fine botrytis. Velvety, balanced, and fresh on the palate with pronounced sweetness, good acidity, and full aromatics featuring grapefruit. Very long, fresh finish. 19/20 2014 - 2040

Pale gold. Vanilla-tinged oak, rich, long, refined but less complete than the 2005. Great future ahead thanks to its stability in air. As is often the case in Barsac, a slight reduction makes the nose a bit firmer at this stage, and the wine should be decanted a good three hours in advance!

This great Barsac shows remarkable complexity, combining both elegance and structure. The length is superb and the finish magnificent. The wine smooths over the shortcomings of the 2004 vintage.

Pale color. Fruity but simple nose. Even after 24 hours open, it delivers nothing! Caressing palate without exuberance, finishing rather mute and simpler than I would have thought on the finish. The next day, the wine showed the same austere behavior. So, I don’t believe cellaring will bring it anything.

This wine is well balanced, rich and unctuous, the sweetness and denseness so carefully blended with acidity, orange zest and dry botrytis. It is a gorgeous, ripe wine, intense but retaining its freshness.