René Gabriel
THE SAINT-ÉMILION SENSATION
Cabernet Sauvignon takes the lead! If, as a journalist, you declare Figeac to be the very best Saint-Émilion, you may find yourself needing to justify it—unless you have a reason…
The largest appellation in Bordeaux (around 5,200 hectares) is planted with an estimated 80% Merlot. Cabernet Franc comes second. Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carmenère make up only a few, tiny remaining percentage points.
So far, so good. But the varietal makeup of the two châteaux most often considered the best and most expensive (Ausone and Cheval Blanc) is made up of at least 50% Cabernet Franc. Which means that, on the very best terroirs, Cabernet Franc is actually the better quality partner than Merlot!
I do, however, believe in the thesis that in truly great Cabernet years, Cabernet Sauvignon can be even better than Cabernet Franc. And that is obviously the case with this sensational Figeac. As the only Saint-Émilion, it has a lion’s share of 43% Cabernet Sauvignon in its blend. Clear?
P.S. In the past, with Figeac one started with the Merlot and then simply skimmed the rest. Today, there are precise time windows in order to achieve maximum ripeness.
Merlot: 21 to 25 September
Cabernet Franc: 12 to 14 October
Cabernet Sauvignon: 5 to 15 October
Barrel tasting in spring 2016: 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Cabernet Franc, 29% Merlot. 41 hl/ha. Impenetrable violet colour with almost black highlights. An incredibly spicy, almost inky bouquet: clove heads, blueberries, liquorice. On the palate, dense and fleshy, delivering a very balanced astringency, precisely focused, fresh, floral and black-berry driven. An extremely persistent finish. It almost never ends—unbelievable. This is the best Figeac en primeur since the 1998 vintage. And it may even surpass it. In fact, you could only taste it at the estate itself. But at Ulysse Cazabonne there was half a bottle to go back to. For me, this is unquestionably the Saint-Émilion sensation of the 2015 vintage! I will be buying a lot of this! (20/20).
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Tasted again at the château in December 2016. No question, it is heading in the right direction and will be truly great. It has what it takes to become a legend! 18: Deep purple, saturated at the core, with a garnet rim. Subtle bouquet, introspective in style and needing a little air. Brilliant black berries, liquorice, caramel, liquorice, dark leather notes. Only after about 10 minutes does it begin to communicate. On the palate it then shows its full greatness: overwhelming, mouth-filling, fleshy with rich extract. Little by little, with each sip, it releases its aromas. It still shows a demanding astringency and flexes its muscles. A wine with the potential to age for many decades. A concentrated powerhouse built on an attractive, forward-looking blend of 43% (!) Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Franc. (20/20).