René Gabriel
Very deep, dark violet-purple with black highlights at the core. Beautiful, fine bouquet with many facets: perfumed cassis, subtle blackberry notes, sweet precious wood, mocha—almost a tender caress on the nose. Exquisitely fine palate, creamy tannins, the fruit stays in the blue- and black-berry spectrum, a hint of coconut rounds off the finish of this decidedly sensual wine, possibly already early-drinking. 08: Just before bottling. Perfumed, exquisitely fragrant Cabernet at its peak. Grand and refined! 09: Deep, dense purple-garnet. Dark fine woods, olives, Valrhona chocolate, dense, generous nose, Harlan Napa tones. Extremely dense palate, lots of substance, flesh and fine rounded tannins, blackcurrant notes, a fairly masculine monument, perhaps the greatest Barton of the modern era, which will really hit its stride only in 10 years. Are 20 points on the cards here? 10: Tasted the same day from magnum and double magnum. Plenty of power, great depth and massive potential. Brilliant—but far too early. (19/20). 12: Dark wine-red, ruby rim. Completely closed, almost no communication, chocolate biscuits, pumpernickel bread, black olives, but, as said, very restrained. Meaty palate, the tannins show quite fine and convey a certain sweetness, black peppercorns, noble astringency on the finish that ends with a hint of dark Bounty (chocolate-coconut). Wait another 10 years. At least 19/20. 13: WILL THE 2006 BE A 20-POINT BARTON? Already during decanting at the big Barton vertical, it smelled from afar wonderfully of great Bordeaux, and it was the darkest—almost black—wine of the tasting! It was just as fantastic to taste. After an hour in the glass, I drank the last sip, not without first drawing that baroque perfume once more into my nostrils. Minerality, yes, very clearly. Minerality in the form of truffle, turpentine and tar. A grand terroir cinema on the nose. On the palate, just a hair’s breadth from the maximum score. I think this is one of Barton’s greatest candidates, with 20/20 within reach. It was the densest when poured and had the most sediment, a saturated, almost impenetrable purple-black. The bouquet shows meaty, bloody notes like a great Hermitage. And that is exactly how it continues on the extremely concentrated palate: lots of meat on the bone, plenty of grainy tannin on the tongue and plenty of muscle in the astringency. A still stern Barton with a marked tannic stamp reminiscent of its younger brother Langoa. It had the most aromatic finish of all the Bartons tasted. The equally brilliant 2005 is, in character, a lady; the 2006, a gentleman. (19/20). 17: The tannins are slowly rounding out, but this Barton, which already appears almost monumental, is still far from true drinking maturity. (19/20). 21: Saturated, dark purple. The bouquet has developed little in recent years. You still get many raw Cabernet traces, fresh wood and green pepper. The fruit is almost exclusively black-berried. At least it is no longer as stubborn on the nose as a few years ago. It goes deep, shows a baroque side, and you almost have to be a soothsayer to explain it at this stage. On the palate, a real chunk of a wine. Blind, you’d more likely drift to Pauillac, so meaty, concentrated and masculine it is. The potential is still huge, and a first real drinking window will likely only open from 2030. And whoever gets to experience that “right moment” can expect to have the greatest Barton of this era in the glass. Then 20/20 will be within reach. P.S. After tasting, the flavor of cassis and blueberry lingered on the palate for minutes. (19/20).