Château Rieussec 2023

Fresh, expressive, lemon confit, pineapple, citrus, herbs; creamy palate, rich yet fresh, very good acidity, long finish on apricot, preserved lemon and almond blossoms.

For the pedigree, a disappointing sample that conveys richness to be sure—with delectable apricot and other white stone fruit aromas and flavours, along with botrytis spice—but it could use more balancing vibrancy. The sample I tried seems a bit stationary, lacking the verve from the top Sauternes. With 148 grams of residual sugar per litre.

The 2023 Rieussec is delicate and light on its feet. White flowers, apple tart, passion fruit and tropical citrus tones are nicely lifted. The 2023 is very much done in a modern style that prizes freshness and mid-weight structure over opulence. I find it quite delicate and very pretty, but also a work in progress.

Score: 91–93. The freshness of pine sap and eucalyptus, heather honey, chamomile, and Victoria pineapple contribute to a rounded nose that retains freshness with saline accents. The unctuous palate is all honey, blood orange peel, and peach compote. The finish is brightened by mentholated notes.

An extremely serious wine, yet already very approachable. Cream, pineapple, honeyed apricots, mangoes, wax and a hint of white mushrooms on the nose. Impeccable balance between fruit and botrytis complexity. Luscious yet supple, with a round, full body and an extremely long finish. Subtle cream comes up at the end. Newly designed bottle. Already delicious, but can hold for decades.