Domaine de la Mordorée : La Reine des Bois Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021

Muscular and rich, yet expertly balanced, with a solid core of black currant, plum and charred apple wood playing out on a svelte but slightly chewy palate. Shows wood smoke, black tea and dried fig in the backdrop, while a beam of saline minerality drives energy through the slightly grippy finish. Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. Drink now through 2035. 1,400 cases made, 100 cases imported.

Gorgeous nose, already showing some spicy, woody complexity. Just as compelling on the palate, the tannins are plentiful and will need time to settle, but the fruit is opulent enough to wait. Very long finish. From mostly galets roulés soils from lieu-dits Bois de la Ville, La Crau and La Nerthe, fermented and aged in 80% stainless steel, 20% old barriques. All destemmed.

A complex and beautifully balanced Chateauneuf for the challenging vintage with a wide spectrum of fruit aromas ranging from ripe cherry to wild blackberry, but also wild herbs and summer flowers. Barely full-bodied thanks to the mineral freshness and the crisp tannins. A cuvee of 80% grenache, 10% mourvedre, 5% syrah and 5% vaccarese. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.

80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Syrah, 5% Vaccarèse. Vinified in old barriques (20%) and stainless-steel tanks (80%). Matured in old barriques (20%) and stainless-steel tanks (80%) for 10 months. Tasted blind. Primary and youthful nose – plum jam, sweet spice and lavender. High, fresh, zippy acidity alongside bags of dark fruit. A bit introverted at the moment, but good fruit beneath it. Needs some time to calm. (AC)

Ripe raspberry, strawberry and pinches of dried herbs present the 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Reine des Bois. Leafy gradations add another layer. Medium- to full-bodied and well balanced by fresh acidity, the 2021 is a classic and refined rendition of this cuvée.

Flowers, black cherries, black pepper, herbs, spices, and sweet plums create the perfume. The wine is round, almost creamy, with ample, peppery red fruits on the palate. Drink from 2024-2036.

The flagship 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de la Reine des Bois is slightly deeper hued, with more blackberry and darker cherry fruits interwoven with notes of roasted herbs, black licorice, and peppery garrigue. It’s concentrated and medium to full-bodied, with building structure and a great finish. I’d put it up with the crème de la crème of the vintage. Drink bottles over the coming 10–15 years. The 2021 is a normal blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, and the rest Vaccarèse, from the Le Bois de la Ville, La Crau, and La Nerthe lieux-dits, that was destemmed and aged mostly in stainless steel (80%) with the rest in used barrels and a splash of new oak.