Domaine François Chidaine : Brut Nature Méthode Traditionnelle 2020

Fresh and racy, this is filled out with crunchy peach, apricot and spiced apple notes flecked with floral high tones. Stays clean and focused, with a buttered almond detail adding richness alongside zested lemon. Density builds, with flinty mineral elements and a kick of grapefruit pithiness piling on. Harmonious and long. Drink now through 2030. 750 cases made, 170 cases imported.

The 2020 Brut Nature is a traditional-method sparkling Chenin. It's a carefully crafted, cleansing aperitif style. Grown biodynamically, it is then naturally fermented in demi-muids before undergoing its second fermentation in bottle and resting on its lees for 18 months. The result is a bone-dry bottling, taut and lively with an assertive fizz. Rich apple fruit flavors are joined by lightly savory notes and subtle pastry characters derived from time on lees.