Grosset : Springvale Riesling 2022

What a complex and enticing nose this dry riesling has, with notes of lime, melon and a slew of Mediterranean herbs. Serious concentration is married to blade-runner lime, mint and wet-stone freshness at the very long finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Full screwcapped bottle still weighs 1,411 g (lighter in 2023). From the north-facing 6-ha certified-organic vineyard over limestone in Watervale at 460 m. Late vintage. Needs coaxing out of the glass compared with some of its peers, but the concentration suggests it’s worth the effort. Obviously lots of acidity and a hint of lychee, even sake. Real presence in the mouth and grip on the back palate. Very long. Lots of fruit concentration, but it would probably ideally be worth waiting for it to unfurl a little. Or decant it? (JR)