Penfolds : Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

This 2020 Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon is big and structural—the Cabernet character (the "Cabernosity" of the wine) sits behind a parapet of oak, and the tannins are finely knit and tightly clenched around the fruit. Unpicking the structure from the finish reveals smoked cassis, resinous char, star anise and sticky lamb fat. It's a big-shouldered, muscly wine. This is fierce and concentrated and will live an eon, but in my opinion, it lacks the finesse and poise that I want to see in Cabernet Sauvignon. The oak regimen—15 months in French (24% new) and American (12% new) hogsheads—and regional makeup has something to do with that: McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Coonawarra, Padthaway and Wrattonbully. There are a lot of good Cabernet regions in there, but in combination, they lose their identities—although, that has long been the appeal with this wine. Choose your own adventure.

Fleshy and toothsome, this has an appealing density to the tannins, with notes of roasted meat and herbs, tobacco and cedar, as well as plenty of concentration, which bodes well for time in the cellar. Drink now through 2037. 9,040 cases imported.

The beautiful nose is typically seductive: rich, full and confident, without ever being too heavy or blocky – the mark of Penfolds’ fastidious Cabernet Sauvignon selection from five separate regions. The palate glides along a silky, gossamer weave of vivid red and purple berries, and this glorious choir of luscious and supple fruits is supported by just a hint of wild herbs, a sprinkle of chocolate powder and tannins that support the impressive palate length. Released at A$120/bottle.

Strong statement of cabernet is the first impression, with violets, blueberries, blackcurrants, fresh leaves and herbs. I like the clarity here. The palate has such intense and rich fruit, with plush, polished and ripe blueberry and cassis flavors. Holds an impressively measured and balanced stance. A blend of McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Coonawarra, Padthaway and Wrattonbully. Drink or hold.

Fruit from McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Coonawarra, Padthaway, Wrattonbully. 15 months in French (24% new) and American (12% new) oak hogsheads. TA 6.5 g/l, pH 3.6. Paler than the Bin 150. Really intense cassis nose. Neat and fresh with lots of sweetness on the palate. Then a tense, tighter, tarry finish. Complex but still very youthful. (JR)

Deep magenta. Earthy, smoke- and spice-accented cherry, cassis, licorice and botanical herb qualities on the perfumed nose. Densely packed dark fruit preserve, espresso, coconut and bitter chocolate flavors slowly turn sweeter through the back half. Shows quite backward right now, but there's clearly plenty of deep fruit here. Dusty tannins add grip to the penetrating finish, which hangs on with strong, spicy tenacity. Aged in new and used French and American oak barrels.