Altesino : Montosoli 2008

The estate’s 2008 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli shows a little more depth in its fruit than the straight bottling. Hints of tobacco, savory herbs and smoke add complexity in a Brunello that shows the virile, powerful side of the vintage. A solid, well-balanced wine, the 2008 should drink well for a number of years. At the same time, I can’t help thinking Altesino would have been better off making just one wine in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020. This is a mixed set of releases from Altesino, one of Montalcino’s historic properties. The 2008 Brunellos and the 2007 Riserva in particular show signs of greenness and oxidation that recall the problems that plagued the 2001s a few years back. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Intense balsamic and mint notes make this red distinctive, along with currant, raspberry and floral touches. Silky, ripe and impressive, this shows elegance and a vibrant structure. Offers excellent length and resonance on the finish. Best from 2016 through 2032. 1,250 cases made, 200 cases imported.

Lots of ripe berry and chocolate character with hints of plum jam. Full and round with an attractive soft texture and a fruity finish. Delicious now but will improve with age.

Dark ruby with a narrow orange rim. Hugely concentrated raspberry and cherry-juice nose. The same intense, fruit-driven palate. Huge length, but that is not the same as having complexity. For now. (WS)

Montosoli is a monumental wine that delivers pulp and richness with ripe fruit aromas, inky concentration and a touch of roasted spice at the back. The wine is savory and tangy with loads of aromatic intensity, but that telltale acidity from the 2008 vintage hits you at the back of the throat and keeps the palate refreshed.