Billecart-Salmon : Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart 2007

Originating from an early September harvest, the 2007 Brut Cuvée Nicolas François, disgorged in November 2020 with a dosage of six grams per liter, represents a comparatively lean and somewhat more restrained rendition of this cuvée. It rises from the glass with aromas of pear, quince and orange peel, mingled with hints of sage and a subtle note reminiscent of cabbage, likely deriving from reduction. Medium-bodied, taut and incisive, the palate is propelled by tangy acidity and built around a tightly knit core, concluding in a long, resonant finish. To my palate, it lacks the harmony that distinguishes the most compelling editions of this cuvée.

Last time I tasted this I wondered whether the bottle was in perfect shape, so I welcome the chance to retaste. 79% grands crus, 21% premiers crus. 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay. 15% of the wine was vinified in 15-year-old oak casks. Dosage 6 g/l. Medium-deep gold. Quite an intense nose but there still seems to be a slight lack of freshness on the palate and then a light bitter note. It's definitely better than the bottle I tasted in October 2021 but rather than being too dry, this bottle seems a little loose. There is some density and persistence however. I may be being too critical. (JR)

Pale golden yellow, silver reflections, delicate, fine mousse. Delicate orange zest, fine yellow fruit of apple and mango, a touch of biscuit and blossom honey, a hint of caramel. Juicy, elegant, white peach, fresh acid structure, very good grip, a breath of pineapple on the back taste, mineral, gently chalky, lime on the echo, endowed with very good maturity and certain ageing potential.

A lovely golden-yellow hue, with aromas that seem more marked by Chardonnay. The patina and yeast autolysis bring greater complexity. The palate is generous yet very well balanced. The bubbles are creamy; this is a flavorful wine that can be enjoyed from today.

This beautiful Champagne is amazingly at its peak. Not too mature, not too young, the wine is in fine balance, showing some nervy edge as well as touches of toast. With a small amount of wood vinification, the wine has extra fullness. Drink through 2025.