Drappier : Grande Sendrée 2008

Very minerally on the nose, with brine and smoke accents leading to flavors of cassis, mandarin orange peel and dried white cherry on the buoyant, creamy mousse. Bright and harmonious, with a rich, lasting finish of toast, chopped hazelnut and spice. Disgorged May 2015. Drink now through 2028. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 100 cases imported.

Led by flavours of pears and Braeburn apples, with spice and beeswax behind the scenes. Lots of lees character.

A step up on the previous release (2006), this has a punchy, assertive and focused style with ripe lemons and peach fruits, some blueberry pastry, plenty of autolysis and honey. The palate is smooth and dense, has impressive phenolic shape and drive, and balances neatly through the finish. Drink now and for 5+ years.

Aged three years in the Drappier cellars after disgorgement in June 2014. Organically farmed 45% Chardonnay, 55% Pinot Noir. Unfiltered. Low SO2. Dosage 4.5 g/l, using liqueur de tirage that has been aged in oak vats. Creamy and seductive on the nose, just gently yeasty. Orange and mandarin. Utterly gorgeous balance between richness and freshness, so satisfying and yet elegant. Fabulous balance and richness allied to crisp precision. Lovely lemon intensity and purity, fabulous length. Utterly mouth-watering. Rich and elegant at the same time. Opens up in the glass to more creamy apple. So seductive. This was the only one of the three pairs of wines where I preferred the cellar-aged version. (JH)

Light yellow-green, silver shimmers, fine lively mousse. Delicately scented nuances of white pear, a hint of orange zest, blossom honey and subtle hints of hazelnut, an attractive bouquet. Juicy, complex, finely expressive, underpinned by elegant acidity, minerality and a hint of yellow tropical fruit on the finish, very good length, good ageing potential.

Great creaminess and intense depth, a great-sendrée that will go down in history. The wine has splendid inner energy.

Grande Sendrée 2008 is a cuvée with a slightly mature yet complex profile, marked by notes of curry, dried fruits, and brioche. It has lovely length and a certain liveliness.

A blend of Pinot Noir (55%) and Chardonnay (45%), Grande Sendrée is the cuvée that best embodies the elegance of the Drappier house. Aromas of honey, citrus and quince are not very expressive at first but reveal themselves with aeration. On the palate, Sendrée is vinous, with a touch of tannins that lends extra structure, a caressing mousse and a long, elongated finish.

This ripe wine offers great balance between the rich, structured Pinot Noir and the mineral Chardonnay. From a very fine vintage, it reveals intense flavors, layers of ripe apple and a taut texture that promises further aging. The wine can be drunk now, but it will be so much better from 2018.