Louis Roederer : Cristal 2016

This leads with pronounced minerality on the nose, but then a bright burst of tangerine, blood orange and Meyer lemon flavors on the palate hold sway, joined by rich hints of crème de cassis, toast point, pastry cream and crystallized honey. Showing beautiful integration and a refined, lacy mousse, this is compact and statuesque, with a sense of restraint and the hint of more to come, while at the same time offering lovely expression in the glass today. Fresh and focused on the persistent finish. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Drink now through 2044. 8,300 cases imported.

Cristal 2016 represents a return to purity and classicism for this cuvée, even seen through the lens of 2016's ripe, generous nature. It is discreet in youth, cloaking its ripeness in long, chalky, stony energy. Gentle mandarin, pale apricot and raspberry fruit sit under slowly maturing notions of floral honey and tight, smoky charm. An airy, flowing delicacy and persistence lifts this above some other expressions of this year. It's a hugely promising Cristal, likely to stand as tall as the sought-after 2012 and 2013 releases.

A hypnotic, radiant nose that wipes away any other thought and unfolds a vast gastronomic universe: morels, poached pear, roasted apricot… Along with notes of opulent flowers, blond tobacco, and dried hay. On the palate, the pleasure is decadent with fresh pineapple, dried mango, baked apple, then more acidity with small red berries and pepper. It’s round and harmonious, rich and deep.

This iconic Champagne, first made in the 19th century for the Tsar of Russia, shows its typical stunning balance and poise between richness and concentration. It has a pure white fruit and honeysuckle aroma and tight, tangy fresh fruit flavors. Just ready to drink, the wine will age well, for at least 20 years. Organic.

58% Pinot Noir, 42% Chardonnay from grand cru villages. The dominant ingredient is Pinot Noir from a north-facing vineyard in Verzenay. Cristal is usually made up of 45 of 70 plots that are at least 20 years old, all fermented as single-vineyard wines and during the winter they select the best. Only 32 of these 45 plots made it into this selection because, according to chef de cave Lécaillon, 2016 was tricky because of the wet spring (as were the early 2012 and late 2013 vintages). There was lots of mildew in their organic vineyards although a beautiful August mitigated the situation. Low crop picked throughout the second half of September. Concentrated fruit. He believes that the vines were more settled into an organic protocol by 2016. 31% oaked wine. No malo, no chaptalisation. Dosage 7 g/l. There will be no Cristal 2017. The 2018 will be released in 2026. Very, very concentrated and dense with some salinity and really juicy. 'We call it the Chevalier-Montrachet of Champagne because it's discreet rather than showy', according to Lécaillon. Markedly savoury, and indeed not entirely unlike modern, slightly austere white burgundy. Definite chewiness on the end and a bottle that should ideally be kept awhile. But, presumably thanks to warmer summers and organically grown vines, it's more open than Cristal used to be on release. (JR)