Château Sansonnet 2023

The barrique dominates the nose, with smoky notes, licorice, dark tobacco, and ripe fruit; densely built, with fine-grained tannins and delicate fruit, the oak is well integrated, and the tannins only show on the finish. Long and fresh, with blueberries on the retro-olfaction. Clearly more appealing for its freshness than last year.

Aromas of dark plum and vanilla toast signal the 70% new oak ageing, which comes to the fore on the palate. I appreciate the evident depth and power in this wine, along with red and dark ripe fruit, but the style is too oak-driven for its own good, blocking a purer expression of the magnificent limestone and clay terroir at this estate. Let’s see after barrel ageing to be sure, but for now the score is more a mark of respect for the care taken in crafting this wine, made from grapes harvested between 20 September and 3 October.

90% Merlot, 10% Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon. Cask sample. Deepest crimson. Intense cassis, ultra-concentrated on the nose. Dark and slightly charry. Like the Rol Valentin, this is concentrated to the point of slight bitterness. Just too much, with a sweet-sour and charry finish. Too much of everything. (JH)

The 2023 Sansonnet has a lively bouquet with blackberry, raspberry and wild hedgerow scents, furnished with violet and peony. Nicely focused. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins, fine acidity, good backbone with a cohesive and lightly spiced finish that begs you back for more. Excellent, although served at different temperatures in two tastings, pour this below, not at room temperature.

Lush, opulent, deep, dark, and rich, there is also ample freshness here, exacerbated by nuances of dark red, with black pit fruits, licorice, smoke, espresso and chocolate. The long, intense, polished finish is complicated with its, salty, crush-rock accents. There is serious length, and depth here. The change in the in barrel aging program has allowed for more freshness, elegance, and purity to express itself in the wine. I would like to see even more of it in future vintages. The wine blends 87% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink from 2028-2045.

Deep dark ruby, opaque core, purple reflections, brightening at the edge. Dark nougat, cranberries, black cherries, blackberry confit, tobacco and wood nuances in the underlay. A juicy palate, red-berried, fresh structure, integrated with supporting tannins; a modern style showing some length and good ageing potential.

Vibrant ruby plum, rich in texture, as are all of these St Emilion Grand Crus Classés in this vintage, with a swirl of dark chocolate and capsicum, highly charged, plenty of impact, good lift through the palate, a flash of heat. Great quality, skilful winemaking, one to admire rather than sink into. A brilliant location, this has the potential for a far higher score, 70% new oak for ageing.

Score: 89–91. The nose shows a sanguine character with ferrous notes before red fruits take the lead. The palate is much more dynamic, with a fresh, mouthwatering framework and gentle, relaxed tannins.

The candied fruit notes handle the barrel ageing beautifully, resulting in a welcome balance in a setting that flirts with exuberance while remaining well framed. On the palate, the wine leans more towards finesse. The attack is subtle, slightly saline and precise. It paves the way for a wine driven by velvety, supple tannins, while a crisp acidity structures the whole. A flavoursome, mouth-watering and persistent wine, remarkable for its ability to harmonise its contradictions. A confident, convincing style!

Displaying a toasty overlay, this red offers a generous and inviting persona, with a core of gently mulled black cherry and currant fruit giving way to sweet tobacco and cedar on the finish. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2032. 2,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.

The Primeurs favourite is doing very well! A dark, intense, purple colour. A highly aromatic bouquet, refined, fruity and subtle. Hints of citrus appear when you swirl the glass. Delicate on the attack, nuanced on the mid-palate and deep in its aromas, the wine builds to a complex, long finish, leaving a juicy, fragrant palate. All wrapped in a lovely, supple texture. A beautiful creamy persistence. A superb outsider.