Croft : Vintage Port 2017

The 2017 Vintage Port is a field blend aged for approximately 20 months in French oak. It comes in with 97 grams of residual sugar. This was only seen before bottling previously. Now, with some bottle age, it looks superb, superior to the 2016 (also reviewed), and a fine 2017. It is, of course, extremely young. It’s tight but not astringent (at least with decanting); the fruit tastes as if just crushed, and it is beautifully balanced. This is nowhere near showing all it has. Put it in the cellar. You can drink it now, but you’ll just be wasting it. Right now, this and the 2016 are close, but I predict this will pull ahead with every passing year.

Blueberry, blackberry and dried violets on the nose, carrying through to a full body with firm, chewy tannins and a flavorful finish. This shows grip, with some green notes and wet earth undertones on the finish. Structured. Try in 2026.

The 2017 Croft Vintage Port was picked from August 31, the earliest since 1945. Deep purple in color, the nose is initially standoffish, checking you out before opening to intense black plum and crushed violet aromas, orange blossom and veins of Seville orange marmalade. Yet it is extremely well focused, disguising the warmth of the growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with a luxuriant, velvety-smooth opening that lacquers the mouth. Beautifully balanced, effortless even, it gently seems to roll across the senses toward its surprisingly controlled finish, tinged with clove and bay leaf, leaving a discreet tingling sensation on the tongue. Superb and probably one of the 2017 Vintage Ports that will drink sooner than others. Total production is 3,900 cases.