Egon Muller : Riesling Scharzhofberger Kabinett 2022

This remarkable Saar Kabinett is very crystalline. Stacks of delicate white tree fruit and white flower aromas. Very straight and bright on the light-bodied palate which flashes like the blade of a sabre in the sun. Fantastic precision and subtly salty at the very long and pristine finish. Great aging potential. Drink or hold.

The 2022 Riesling Scharzhofberger Alten Reben Kabinett is harvested from vines planted in 1895-1905, partially and gradually replaced over decades with new vines in the same parcel, yet some of the old vines are still left. It opens with a truffle-inflected, yeasty smokiness that allows glimpses of kumquat to flicker deliciously. The palate comes in with utter juiciness, of sweet but not opulent ripeness, think ripe Reine Claude plum with white peach and lemon. The 2022 displays elegant fruit with a subtle but distinct edge of grapefruit zest. The finish is pure and lasting. Available at auction: 1,080 bottles, 1 magnum. (Sweet)

Coming entirely from the Scharzhofberger Vineyard (the estate owns a large portion of this site), the 2022 Riesling Scharzhofberger Kabinett is racier, with brilliant notes of crushed citrus, crushed stone, mint, lychee nut and sappy, flower-like nuances. Medium-bodied on the palate, it delivers a fresh, focused, vibrant mouthfeel, integrated acidity and a great finish. This is absolutely gorgeous.