L'Aventure : Estate Cuvée 2017

This library wine opens with a nose of dark fruit notes like sultana, blackberry, and black currant—earthy umami and forest floor, accented by a touch of cinnamon sticks and other baking spices. The palate is full-bodied and round, with dark berries, warming oak, spice, herbaceousness, and soft, integrated tannins. With time and aeration, the wine becomes fresh in the glass. It is a versatile companion for rich meats such as braised beef cheeks.

This is open and delicious now, showing red berries, blackberries and some chocolate. Medium-bodied with medium, round tannins. Juicy and flavorful. Shows the heat of the vintage, yet it remains fruity and fresh. 49% syrah, 30% cabernet sauvignon and 21% petit verdot. Drink now.

49% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Petit Verdot. 2017 was generally a cooler vintage early on, with heat arriving in early September that accelerated the harvest. ‘The 2017s are the perfect proof that a big wine in terms of concentration doesn’t necessarily mean the best wine. They are a touch less dense (but still big) than the 2016s, with a lot of balance and elegance. In other words, I would describe my 2017 as “classic”. There is a lot of fruit, a lot of pleasure and, while the wines are firm, they are also quite silky. The 2017s are super-expressive and very distinct, and while they are already approachable I can only imagine what a few more years in bottle will do.’ Stephan Asseo, a Bordelais who created L'Aventure in 1998, loves this vintage. Vineyard created from scratch, on limestone on the west side of Paso Robles. The Thiénot family have invested directly in L’Aventure in addition to their investment in CVBG. Harvest 4 September to 27 October. Very dark crimson. Thick and sweet. Rather comforting – a bit like a woollen blanket. And although the alcohol is monstrous, the balance seems okay. There is a little heat on the finish but, compared with Clos Apalta for example, there is no green streak and the fruit/acid balance seems fine. Quite a surprise. Even if halfway to Port. (JR)

Opaque ruby. Expansive smoke- and spice-accented aromas of ripe black and blue fruits, vanilla and incense are complemented by hints of licorice and potpourri. Bright and energetic on the palate, offering penetrating blackberry, bitter cherry, blueberry and violet pastille flavors that become sweeter and deeper with air. Polished, harmonious tannins give shape and grip to an extremely long finish driven by sexy floral and spice notes.

The flagship 2017 Estate Cuvée (49% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 21% Petit Verdot) spent 15 months in 90% new French oak, and I certainly blew the barrel review on this wine. It offers a brilliant bouquet of crème de cassis, crushed violets, lead pencil, chocolate, and a rocking sense of minerality. Deep, full-bodied, concentrated, and seamless on the palate, it's about as polished and sexy as they come in the vintage.