La Rioja Alta : Gran Reserva 904 2009

Tempranillo with 5% Graciano. So lovely with that inviting nose of aged but still perky wine, pulsing with fruit but with so much savoury complexity, like a room filled with oak furniture. A gorgeous satiny texture of ripe, polished, filigree tannins. Really so luxurious, but very fine and long.

This is a driven and super tight Gran Reserva with dark berries and hints of spice and cedar. A spicy red-pepper undertone and some dried flowers. Full to medium body, integrated tannins and a superb finish. A great wine. Available in September 2018. A wine for the cellar, but why wait?

Luminous ruby. Intense nose that recalls molten butter as well as rich, ripe, delectable animal aromas. Great sweetness but no obvious oakiness. Clearly some bottle age here and some delightful freshness. Savoury note on the finish. (JR)

Bright ruby. A hugely perfumed bouquet evokes red berry liqueur, candied cherry, coconut, potpourri, pipe tobacco and exotic spice aromas, all complemented by a smoky overtone. Alluringly sweet, broad and pliant on the palate, displaying a velvety texture to the plush raspberry, cherry cola, floral pastille and coconut flavors. Superb depth and no rough edges. Turns sweeter with air, finishing with outstanding clarity, a hint of mocha and velvety, harmonious tannins. While this wine is utterly delicious right now, I've no doubt that it'll be cruising along just fine in another 20 years or more. Aged in four-year-old American oak barrels for four years.

Vines over 60 years old, a very hot and dry summer, rain in September, four years in used American oak barriques. On the nose it initially recalls a hint of rhubarb tart, fine acidity, bright cherry notes in between; when not decanted it seems a bit smudged, but it clarifies significantly with just a little air and, after a few minutes, turns into a fine, classic Rioja with spicy notes and freshness, and plenty of American oak vanilla. Still has lots of time, with sensational development in the glass.