La Rioja Alta : Gran Reserva 904 2010

A youngster, needing five years to begin to settle in. Aromas of tobacco, liquorice and vanilla. On the palate, the fruit arrives plump, with a punch of acidity, the typical Rioja Alta freshness, and distinct oak ageing. The 10% Graciano blended with the Tempranillo gives 904 its typical dark plum character and a firm structure that ensures cellaring potential. A total of 120,000 bottles produced; 904 is not made every year.

Fresh blueberries and brambleberries take center stage, which is striking for a wine of this age. There are also lots of roasted herbs, such as sage, not to mention floral elements, including lavender and dried violets. Then come cedar, sandalwood and tar. The tannins are incredibly round and soft, without the slightest hint of anything dry. This is among the most elegant of Riojas, where the acidity is wonderfully pronounced and cuts right through any touch of dried fruit. Long and powerful, yet subtle on the finish. Drink now, or hold for a very long time.

Brilliant ruby. Powerful, spice-tinged cherry, red currant, pipe tobacco, coconut and incense aromas are complemented by floral and spicy nuances, gaining volume with air. Sweet and seamless on the palate, offering deeply concentrated cherry liqueur, red berry, floral pastille, musky earth and spicecake flavors that pick up a smoky flourish on the back half. Concentrated yet lively in style, showing superb delineation, firm structure and a sexy floral quality on the extremely long, penetrating finish. Raised for four years in four-year-old American oak barrels.