Le Petit Cheval 2023

Freshly zested lemon with grapefruit and orange aromas—so pronounced and really quite crystalline on the nose. At the back, some green apple and white floral elderflower and acacia notes too. Clean and focused, with lovely precision and clarity to the flavours and such a strikingly poised texture. This has grip and zing but also just a touch of buttery softness that adds weight to the body. Threads of nuttiness and wood appear, giving accents and spiced edges. Piercing acidity adds lift and joins layers of confit lemon, baked vanilla pecans, bitter grapefruit, and soft cinnamon spice. Gorgeously complex, and the flavour lasts for ages. It has everything you want from this cuvée, which has found its rhythm. Tasted in a vertical going back to 2018, and this is the most impressive. Director Pierre-Olivier Clouet and cellarmaster Carole André.

A bird of a different feather, this marries a polished feel with the nervy, underlying zip of sel gris and quinine notes, while its core of green almond, star fruit and white peach opens slowly. Shows subtle accents of tarragon and verbena on the finish. Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Drink now through 2028. 2,900 cases made.

Exotic fruits, lychee, peach, grapefruit; creamy opening, then tighter through the mid-palate, very vertical, top acidity, fine-boned with great elegance on the finish; long, salty close with a salted preserved lemon note.

This bursts right out of the glass—an absolute knockout, a fabulous white with tremendous personality: steel, cold ash, grilled nectarine and preserved citrus. A full two years’ ageing on full lees. Since its inaugural vintage, this is a wine that has unquestionably come into its own, and it’s hard to go wrong with this particular vintage. Harvested on August 19, with 24 months’ ageing in large oak casks for the whites—the longest ageing to date—successfully capturing density and mid-palate presence. 10% new oak, spread across a mix of 600L demi-muids and large oak casks. Estate director Pierre-Olivier Clouet.

Full bottle 1,338 g. (Ch Cheval Blanc has been admirable in its eco moves in the vineyard, but maybe these should include a move to lighter bottles.) 70% Sauvignon Blanc (some of the plant material originally from Sancerre) and 30% Sémillon. Wax seal. Very pale straw. Arrestingly decongestant nose with some richness. If someone told me there was a little Sauvignon Gris in here, I would believe them. Stinky/smoky nose but the real distinction of this wine is the broad spread of fruit on the palate. Very different indeed from the average Bordeaux Blanc. Real distinction on the creamy palate but you are certainly made to pay for it. Great purity. (JR)

The pungent nose pops with white flowers, white peaches, pears, orange rind, spice, and mint leaf. The palate continues along the same path, kicking off with sea salt, peppery spice, citrus, pomelo, and crushed stone. The wine is sweet, vibrant, juicy, lively, long, and powerful, resting in the middle of austerity, purity, and elegance. The wine was produced from 73% Sauvignon Blanc and 23% Emilion, 13.5%. Drink from 2026-2038. 96 Pts

The relatively new white wine of this reference point château in Saint-Emilion, the 2023 Château Cheval Blanc Le Petit Cheval Blanc is based on 73% Sauvignon Blanc and 27% Sémillon and was brought up 20 months in demi-muids and foudres. Its light gold hue is followed by a pure, graceful, gorgeous Sauvignon that has bright citrus, grapefruit, white flowers, and hints of spice, with a building sense of minerality. It brings medium-bodied richness, has a rounded, layered mouthfeel, integrated yet clean, bright acidity, and a clean finish. It's a brilliant white that will keep for at least a decade. Drink 2026-2035.