Altesino : Riserva 2019

Like many other producers in the appellation, Altesino jumped forward from the 2017 Riserva directly to this vintage. The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva shows more density and overall fruit weight. The wine also reveals thick textural heft and, ultimately, more dark fruit sweetness. It gives us a much bigger and richer interpretation of Sangiovese. Production is 12,000 bottles.

This is fluid and starts out supple, evoking cherry, plum and forest floor flavors, with flashes of tar and pine. The taut, driving structure, especially its bracing acidity, propels this red to the superlong aftertaste. Dense, resonant tannins define the finish, which feels compact now despite the unabashed length. Best from 2029 through 2048. 1,000 cases made, 350 cases imported.

This Riserva favours the estate’s most southerly vineyards in 2019, with the majority of lots coming from the Pianezzine site near Sant’Angelo in Colle. It is a rousing interplay of dark, earthy nuance—wet forest floor, leather and mushroom—with sweet, luscious fruit. Here, wild strawberry and dark plum provide the backdrop. The tannins are silky and polished yet build with intensity and grip in this full-bodied offering. It culminates with a suggestion of iron before shutting down. Cellaring is advised.

A very classic and telltale Montalcino. The subtle nose shows smoky woodland and forest-floor aromas allied to dried cherries and raspberries, dried roses and earthy minerality. The full-bodied palate has velvety tannins, a chalky finish, refreshing acidity and a tight, eminently floral finish. Drinkable now but best from 2028 or 2029.

Dark, maturing ruby with a bricky rim. Balsamic, deep nose that isn’t fully open to the fruit, with hints of eucalyptus and a suggestion of morocco leather. Deep, savoury-sweet cherry fruit and finely ground, long tannins. Dense, long and layered, with supple acidity. You might think you could approach this now, but I would wait another year. A real balancing act. (WS)

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is dark and brooding, with hints of black tea leaves, crushed rocks and smoke before giving way to the scent of dried black cherry. It balances silken textures with a pure mix of ripe red and black fruits as cooling acidity maintains a lovely balance. Aromas of citrus-laced blackberries mix with sage and nuances of licorice. This finishes long and potent yet still quite fresh.

The 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva is a saturated yet youthful deep red/brick color and is ripe with notes of black licorice, walnut, dark cherry pit, and polished leather. Full-bodied, it has more gamey richness on the palate, with ripe tannins and an earth-tinged finish. I prefer the Brunellos over the Riserva here, as they offer more transparency and freshness. Drink over the coming 8-10 years.