Bibi Graetz : Colore 2009

Powerful, with leather, plum tart, earth and tar flavors, backed by a vibrant structure. This shows heft, but a racy side lends definition to the refined finish. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino. Best from 2016 through 2025. 292 cases made, 200 cases imported.

Very hot conditions, especially in August and September, led to wines with high alcohols and limited finesse. Yields were generous but the colour here is deep, and the nose is voluptuous, with black-fruit aromas and some vanilla tones. Rich and fleshy, this shows ample tannic structure, but also a slight dryness on the finish. Yet it doesn't lack concentration and persistence. A fine result from a tricky vintage but surpassed by the 2010.

A chewy and fruity wine with blackberry, blueberry and cedar. Some flowers. It’s full-bodied and round. Slightly hollow in the center palate. Drink now.

One-third each Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Colorino. Initially hailed as a great vintage, the hot summer led to ripe fruit and higher alcohol levels. Very high temperatures in August were tempered by cool nights. 2009 was the first vintage where Graetz used consultants only in the vineyards – all winemaking decisions were down to him. Although Graetz stated this was one of his favourite vintages, it wasn’t mine – perhaps a slightly oxidised bottle? Much more prune-like on the nose, a little heavy and jammy on the palate. The fruit feels a bit baked and doesn’t have the freshness of either 2008 or 2010. Powerful, weighty but drying on the finish. (AH)

(34% Sangiovese, 33% Canaiolo, 33% Colorino) Silky, dense, fresh, complex bouquet: currants, cherries, blueberries, cold smoke, lemon thyme, nougat, light tobacco, fine precious woods, black pepper, delicate coffee bean notes. Aromatic, dense, classic palate with refined power, fine fruit, plenty of fine tannin, an elegant, well-muscled structure, layered, intense aromatics, and a long, dense, full finish. 18/20 drink – 2030