Château Cos Labory 2023

Dark-fruited, with blackberry and herbs; on the palate dense, fine-grained tannins, gripping, spicy, with good length. A crisp Cos Labory that can age.

Smells floral and perfumed. Juicy and supple, this has a nice balance between really lively, bright red fruits and tannins that are fleshy and filling. It’s bouncy and inviting, really easy to enjoy, lots of structure on show, not so serious. Ends a little salty with powdery graphite. Doesn't scream old-school St-Estèphe. A little more open and approachable. Ripe, chewy, almost sweet and sour with the ripe red fruit and cool blue fruit. A nice change of style for this wine. Cos d'Estournel purchased this neighbouring property in March 2023 with north- and west-facing vineyards compared to d'Estournel's south- and east-facing vines. First time the team have used a vertical press and included press wine in the blend at 12%. 4% Petit Verdot completes the blend.

Chocolate, licorice, black cherries, and smoke aromas get you instantly focused on the wine. On the palate, the wine is fresh, vibrant, and chewy, with black raspberries, and chocolate in the lifted, minty-fresh, and chalky finish. The debut vintage produced by the team from Cos d'Estournel. The wine blends 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot. Drink from 2028-2040.

Dark ruby, purple reflections, brightening on the rim. Delicately red berry-accented herbal savoriness, fresh cherries, hints of figs, orange zest. Medium body, red cherries, ripe tannins, freshly structured, a balanced food wine.

55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot. Restrained at first, with delicate blueberry contours, a hint of iris and light graphite. On the compact palate, soft texture, refined saline note, supporting freshness, structure paired with good finesse and medium body. In the focused finish, the St. Estèphe streamlines and ends with finely friable astringency. The first (full) year of Dominique Arangotis (Cos d’Estournel).

The arrival of Cos d’Estournel at Cos Labory in May 2023 has to be one of the most interesting purchases of recent years. There are of course similarities between the two properties – same hill, after all, and direct neighbors. But where Cos is east and south-facing, Cos is west and north-facing. And they are taking on a seriously old-school property, without even temperature control in the cellars (fixed on arrival, as you can imagine). There is a difference in the quality of the aromatics from recent vintages of Cos Labory, with concentrated black fruits shot through with turmeric and sage spices, although the tannins are still austere and old-school. The hard thing for Cos, in my opinion, will be to safeguard a little of the Cos Labory style, otherwise you might as well put all the grapes together and just increase production of the 2nd Growth. It will be fascinating to watch. Conversion to organics underway.

Score: 91–93. A beautiful floral nose, gently perfumed, sappy and soothing, with black-fruit aromas. On the palate, the wine is fluid, limpid, and dynamic, evoking small sea waves lifted by the wind. The saline finish is long and mouthwatering.

This is the first vintage entirely under the guidance of the Cos d’Estournel team. The fruit is crisp, and compared to 2022 it has gained in tannins and also in generosity. With aeration it becomes more caressing, unfolding an unusual velvety texture. It retains the energy and the svelte profile that define it.

93-95. Barrel Sample. This is the first vintage after the spring acquisition of the estate by Cos d'Estournel next door. The wine is refined, emphasizing fruit and black-currant flavors. Behind this, there is structure and a fine density.

Ripe, fresh and focused, with a steady beam of violet, ink, cassis and damson plum notes that are nicely melded together and carried by sleek iron and buried chalk accents that focus the finish. A textbook example of the AOC. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2027 through 2037. 6,000 cases made, 800 cases imported.