René Gabriel
91: Barrel sample (17/20): fine nuances on the nose, floral, almost reminiscent of a Margaux. Soft palate, fine tannins, lingonberries. It seems to me it didn’t fully realize its possible 90-point potential. A fine but light wine. At arrival, I was startled because the idiosyncratic nose showed a slight uncleanliness. I noted cautiously; an impetuous wine that is hard to assess in its youth. The wealth of tannins clearly indicates that nothing will really happen here before the turn of the century. Then came the sobering moment, just a few days before the mentioned turn of the century in December at the Arlberg Hospiz. In the blind tasting, the wine failed completely. This cellar problem seems to have even worsened with further bottle development. In any case, I would recommend everyone to keep entirely away from the Ducru 1990. And those who already have it in their cellar can only hope for better times. Notes from the Arlberg blind tasting: dull, cellar-like bouquet, dried fruits and initial oxidation notes. On the palate, corky tones, then a fat texture, dry, leathery tannins, rough body, completely lacking harmony. There is only a faint glimmer of hope that this wine will ever bring joy. If it holds on in terms of potential, this will be in about ten years at the earliest. 00: Brightening ruby-red. Open, unclean bouquet, bouillon paste, corky, animal, slightly iodine note. On the palate, metallic, relatively hard tannins, canned tomatoes, really no fun (14/20). 02: In the meantime tasted again often. Unfortunately, almost all bottles, with very few exceptions, are stinky. But for once the rule confirms the exception. (14/20). 09: Black-berried, smoke, fairly deep. On the palate, black mushrooms, petrol notes, a certain uncleanliness but, for a ’90, still showing surprisingly high potential. Due to the dull underlying tone, decant at least a day in advance. Then it can indeed give some pleasure. (14/20). 13: Still musty and dull.