Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 1981

Excellent dark color accompanying plummy, floral and lead pencil aromas and flavors. Muscular for the vintage, with ripe tannins and peppery, fruity tones. Drinkable now.--The Bordeaux 50.

The 1981 Grand-Puy-Lacoste, poured from a half-bottle, has a bright hue with little signs of aging. Dark berry fruit aromas commingle with mahogany antique bureau and light estuarine scents on the nose, with just a faint hint of boot polish. The palate contains commendable fruit and surprisingly rounded texture, considering the vintage. Though the finish is not complex, it conveys a sense of classicism and elegance, with lingering cedar notes on the aftertaste. This is drinking perfectly now. Tasted at Tsui Village in Hong Kong.

Lightening garnet color; still-youthful red highlights. Pleasant chocolatey bouquet, followed by redcurrants, a fine medicinal note, and after 20 minutes, mocha yogurt. Slender palate, with tannins that feel a bit wiry; nonetheless a decent wine. Today it is certainly in its final phase.

Interesting to try this vintage over the more famous 1982 (apparently lots of English tasters preferred this one at the time). It's a wine with traces of Pauillac tannins and savoury fruits, but these are now very much in autumnal mode, laced with white truffles, rosehips and soy. Not long left on this wine, I would suggest opening bottles that you have. At this point it was in the early years of ownership by the Borie family, who came on board in 1978.

Deep red color. Medium intensity. Mature. Bright. Intense nose. A real bouquet. Fruity. Woody (a bit old). A hint of musk. With aeration, notes of undergrowth. Meaty with a touch of vegetal character. Then licorice and fruit. Changes a lot in the glass. A subtle attack developing into a smooth, melted structure, with a straight profile and a rather caressing mid-palate. A very fine tannic balance leading to a savory, very long finish with notes of licorice stick and fruit. A wine built on its finish, still very much alive. A pleasure today. Ready to drink.

Light in style for Grand-Puy, the 1981 has more in common with the 1979 than either the substantial 1982 or full-bodied, yet elegant 1978. An elegant mixture of ripe berry fruit and spicy oak overlaid with soft tannins makes this wine very easy to drink now. Anticipated maturity: Now. Last tasted, 4/90.