Château Léoville Las Cases 1998

Impressive dark, almost purple color. Intense aromas of crushed blackberries, minerals, mint and currant follow through to a full body, with licorice and berry character and a long, velvety finish. Needs a bit of time still, but very enjoyable already. Very serious for the vintage. -- '88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2011.

1998 was a late flowering year, but the grapes achieved perfect ripeness by harvest time. It’s an excellent vintage that’s generally known as a Right Bank year, yet it more than holds its own in St-Julien. At this point we’re beginning to see what a mature Léoville can do: the rims are softening to a russet hue and the cigar-box character is apparent, alongside notes of hedgerow, undergrowth, rosemary, black cherry, cassis, and a touch of menthol on the finish.

Loads of tobacco and mushroom with some wet earth and currant throughout. Medium-bodied, creamy and juicy with lovely energy. Real Bordeaux here. Savory finish. Drink now.

This has developed very well over the wines, gaining weight and complexity. Now you find a ready-to-go Las Cases delivering a complex set of aromatics: black and red currants, smoke, cigar box, wet earth, cedar, and tobacco. The wine is full, firm, stoic, and also fresh. Classic in style, the finish is all about its freshness and lift that come with its chewy, bright, red, spicy fruits. An hour or two of air will help. The wine blends 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Franc, 12.9% ABV.

Harvested under rainy conditions (1998 was great for the Right Bank and much more difficult for the later ripening Left Bank), the 1998 Léoville Las Cases offers a complex, nuanced, and elegant style that lacks some ripeness yet stays classic and balanced, with no green or off flavors. Cedar, lead pencil, currants, leafy herbs, and ample spice notes all emerge from this medium to full-bodied Saint-Julien that has fine tannins, a seamless texture, and terrific elegance. Drink it over the coming decade or so.