Château Nénin 1998

The finest Nenin in many decades, the dense ruby/purple-coloured 1998 exhibits aromas of coffee, melted caramel, vanilla, plums, and black cherry jam. It is full-bodied, with an unctuous texture, superb purity, and a silky, seamless finish. There is abundant tannin submerged beneath the wine's fatness and richness. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2025.

Crushed blackberries, with coffee and smoked meat on the nose. Full-bodied, with very velvety tannins and a long finish, with a beautiful mouthfeel. Why wait on this beauty? -- '88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Drink now.

Red-ruby. Redcurrant, cherry, roasted coffee and nuts on the nose. Smooth and pliant in the middle, with soft flavours of plum and tar. Finishes somewhat aggressive, with substantial tannins and a bit of heat. This seemed better a year ago from barrel.

The first vintage under the control of the Delon Family (Leoville Las Cases), the 1998 Chateau Nenin is 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. It's fully mature today with a classic nose of ripe currants, truffle, saddle leather, dried flowers, and chocolate. Full-bodied on the palate, it has resolved tannins, a great mid-palate, and outstanding length. This fully mature, complex, seamless Pomerol is best enjoyed over the coming 3-5 years.

Deep garnet, showing a first fine hint of development. Sweet vanilla note, walnut, chocolate, a certain Amarena touch from very ripe grapes. On the palate medium-bodied, a red-berry touch, subtle cassis notes, more muscle than flesh; despite its reserves it is already in its drinking window and can still improve.

04: Deep garnet; the first fine glimmer of maturity. Gorgeous sweet vanilla note, walnuts, chocolate and a certain amarena touch from very ripe grapes. On the palate medium-weight, a red-berried touch and discreet cassis notes, shows more muscle than flesh and, despite its reserves, is certainly already in its drinking window. Can still put on more (17/20). From magnum bottles at the Schumacherzunft. Comes across strict and peppery on the nose; for a 98, surprisingly lots of red berries, cocoa beans, hints of cedar. On the palate slender, piquant, upfront with firm notes, finishing on sour cherries. Will it ever achieve its harmony? (17/20). 06: At the Primeurfest in Basel. It does have the breed of a great vintage, but unfortunately not the fullness of a great Pomerol; moreover, the gritty, almost piquant tannin–acid grains cling stubbornly to the tongue even long after the wine has been swallowed. An hour’s decant helps a little. (17/20). 18: Medium colour, still showing some red at the core. Initially a little reserved, but it shows fine concentration; its finesse is conveyed by ground black pepper. On the second pass: blackberries and delicate bakelite notes. On the palate dense, very structured, feels a little brittle, yet still incredibly young. So in 20 years it has developed rather little. It surprised me, as this was only the second vintage of the new Délon era. Probably selected only from the old vines. I had probably slightly underestimated it earlier. This Nenin proves the longevity of its wines, as earlier old vintages have often shown. Decant for one hour. (18/20).

Mineral, sweet bouquet, smoke, raisins, green herbs, currants, chocolate. Velvety, full palate with broad structure, fine-grained tannins, spicy aromatics, long finish. 17/20 to drink

You can immediately see the quality of this vintage, and there remains an intensity and a power to the wine even at 24 years old. Warming clove and turmeric spice notes show the sunshine of the year, along with walnut, tobacco, cold ash. The tannins are melted and silky, and still evident. Blackberry fruits, puree, a soufflé of fruit. Worth noting also that you can still buy this wine from the estate, unusual to be able to source older vintages of Pomerol, but Nenin is an exception. 35% new oak.

Bordeaux red colour. Medium to good intensity. Bright. Nose of medium intensity. Smoky. Cabernet-type. With vigorous swirling, lively and smoky. Soft on entry, developing into a medium body with a fresh aromatic dimension. The structure is slender, flavourful and returns to creamy notes on the finish. These are what bring complexity to the palate, even if the density is normal.