Château Rieussec Magnum Retro 2023

Fresh, expressive, lemon confit, pineapple, citrus, herbs; creamy palate, rich yet fresh, very good acidity, long finish on apricot, preserved lemon and almond blossom.

Given the pedigree, a disappointing sample that certainly conveys richness—with delectable apricot and other white stone fruit aromas and flavors, along with botrytis spice—but it could use more balancing vibrancy. The sample I tried feels a bit stationary, lacking the verve of the top Sauternes. With 148 grams of residual sugar per liter.

The 2023 Rieussec is delicate and light on its feet. White flowers, apple tart, passion fruit and tropical citrus tones are nicely lifted. The 2023 is very much done in a modern style that prizes freshness and mid-weight structure over opulence. I find it quite delicate and very pretty, but also a work in progress.

Score: 91–93. The freshness of pine and eucalyptus sap, heather honey, chamomile, and Victoria pineapple contribute to a rounded nose that still retains freshness with saline accents. The unctuous palate is all honey, blood orange peel, and peach compote. The finish is enlivened by menthol notes.

An extremely serious wine, yet already very approachable. Cream, pineapple, honeyed apricots, mangoes, wax and a hint of white mushrooms on the nose. Impeccable balance between fruit and botrytis complexity. Luscious yet supple, with a round, full body and an extremely long finish. Subtle cream comes up at the end. Newly designed bottle. Already delicious, but can hold for decades.