Château Valandraud 2023

Lots of depth, incredibly dark-fruited and complex; taut on the palate, densely built; powerful, structured, juicy, long-lasting. Will age beautifully.

As always, Valandraud is defined by its concentration, opulence and depth, and 2023 is no exception. Expect masses of ripe but fresh blackberries, licorice, dark chocolate, hazelnuts and some pepper. Structured and full-bodied, with tight, fine-grained tannins and a juicy, intense finish. Glossy and layered, with voluptuous fruit. Modern and extremely long, lasting more than a minute. Big but not heavy. Drink from 2027.

84% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon. Cask sample. Deep, bright purple hue. Ripe and concentrated on the nose with confit fruit notes. Plush and bold on the palate but there’s freshness and a certain restraint as well. Big tannic frame. Well made in a modern vein. (JL)

The 2023 Valandraud is matured entirely in new oak with no sulfites added during the aging, using CO2 to protect the wine instead. This has a little more refinement on the nose than the Virginie de Valandraud, impressive precision and it deftly soaks up the new oak compared to its peers (as it often does). The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, the 8% Cabernet Sauvignon imparting marine-like notes toward the finish. Good backbone, just a bit heady in the final stretches.

Chocolate, espresso, perfectly ripe, deep, dark, plums, and black cherry aromatics are all over the place. On the palate, the wine is rich, opulent, intense, deep, long, and palate-staining. It is also equally vibrant, fresh, lush, creamy, and long, leaving you with multiple-layers of ripe, sweet, fruits, salty chocolate, and espresso from start to finish. Blending 84% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink from 2029-2055.

Garnet colour with a deep core, purple reflections. Dark forest berries, liquorice, black cherries, fine savoury herbal notes and old wood. Very deep, hints of nougat and nut oil, ripe tannins, chocolatey, opulent style, fine fruit on the finish, impressive but not elegant, some bitter chocolate on the echo.

Inky depths to Valandraud in this vintage, well constructed, intense sweet liquorice and dark chocolate. It starts out suggesting a more old-school feel for this wine, with crème de cassis dominant and high alcohol, but it gains focus and lift as it moves across the palate, with lilting aromatics of red roses, welcome pumice-stone tannins, squid-ink salinity, and mouthwatering freshness. Skilful, confident, impressive. 100% new oak for ageing, Jean-Luc Thunevin owner at this 10.7ha estate (currently replanting several plots, so 6.6ha in production). Yield 40hl/ha.

Score: 94–96. Superb freshness reminiscent of a basket of just-picked small fruits (wild blackberry, blackcurrant, blueberry) and more herbal notes of raspberry leaves and bramble. The palate is deliciously indulgent, perfectly juicy, with a velvety mouthfeel, caressing, coating tannins, and a freshness that carries through to the finish. Very pretty.

The best barrel sample I have tasted from this estate in a long time, as it shows not only the dark ripe fruit one expects, but also an extra dimension of freshness, with blood orange lift on the finish. Let’s not get ahead of ourselves: the attack (with similar aromas) reveals beguiling blackberry liqueur and cassis creaminess, along with red licorice and iodine freshness. I still get oak-stave aspects from the 100% new oak (which calls for some caution, given the 15% alcohol), but superb mid-palate depth combined with that fine finish bodes well for the future. Strong potential for a higher score after bottling.

A lovely, elegant nose, precisely concentrated, with depth and intensity and a beautiful multi-layered character. It shows notes of ripe/plump wild blackcurrant, pulpy black plum and, more lightly, blueberry, with fine hints of camphor and small roasted-juicy red fruits, as well as delicate touches of star anise and lily, a subtle hint of fresh toast and an imperceptible hint of roast. The palate is pleasantly supple, fresh, juicy and sapid, offering indulgence, a tangy backbone, lovely mid-palate suppleness, freshness, density, indulgence, and a tangy, savory line. A beautiful multi-layered side and an almost maceration-like touch in perfect measure. It expresses notes of boysenberry, pulpy/juicy blackcurrant and, more subtly, fleshy small fruits, with hints of dark chocolate, star anise, Bourbon vanilla, fine floral and infusion nuances, and a discreet hint of roasting and graphite, plus a touch of toasted hazelnut and a subtle, almost Mediterranean nuance to the fruit. Supple, gourmand tannins. A lovely wine, nicely sapid and flavorful on the finish.

95-97. Barrel Sample. Fine black fruit and licorice aromas introduce a wine with rich tannins and great concentration. It is powerfully dense, full of black plum and berry fruits, and is solid as well as fruity. It is sure to have a fine, aging future.

This is deliciously succulent, with boysenberry and blackberry compote notes showing good energy as sandalwood, mesquite, black tea and anise swirl through. Seductive finish. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2026 through 2038. 2,500 cases made, 250 cases imported.