Domaine Bruno Clair : Bonnes-Mares Grand cru 2023

Structured and substantial; there is a black plum and mulberry fruit, accented with notes of smoke, fresh saddle leather, earth and game. The texture is super-concentrated, with firm, grippy tannins, massive extract, and more than enough freshness to carry this to a superbly long finish. The grapes are from a parcel of 1.64ha on the Morey side of the appellation; the oldest vines were planted just after the Second World War, the youngest being 40 years old. This is top-flight wine.

Very intense nose. Juicy-fruited, so that one hardly notices the structure that is undoubtedly there. Very pure and fresh. Just really rather glorious. Long and sweet but not heavy. Yes! So long. (JR)

On the nose, a blackberry tart fresh out of the oven, just like at Grandma’s: delicate shortcrust pastry, subtle sweet spices in the background, restrained sweetness. A touch of fine cocoa rounds it all off. On the palate, it’s a real Pandora’s box, packed with salty and sweet treats, highly addictive, with that slightly numbing sensation of Sichuan pepper.