Domaine Laroche : Chablis Grand cru "Les Clos" 2023

This white brims with yellow apple, mirabelle plum and oyster shell flavors. The firm, vibrant structure lends support, and overall this is balanced, leaving a citrus- and mineral-infused aftertaste. Drink now through 2030. 250 cases made, 50 cases imported.

The 2023 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a more backward nose that demands coaxing, but I feel that it never quite clicks into fifth gear. There's just a patina of oak to be subsumed here. The palate is more composed with impressive concentration. You can feel the weight of Les Clos, which is what you want. Then again, it would benefit from more complexity and sustain on the finish. Give this a couple of years in bottle. Tasted blind at the BIVB tasting in Chablis.