Domaine Zind-Humbrecht : Pinot Gris Grand cru "Clos Saint Urbain Rangen de Thann" 2023

The brain-rattling concentration, smokiness and flinty energy of this unique dry pinot gris don’t fit in any box on this planet. Definitely not full-bodied, but how could you say it is medium-bodied with this intensity of expression? In spite of the power, it shoots almost weightlessly up into the heavens and pulls you with it. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.

The 2023 Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru has a vibrantly reduced nose holding a delicious, rocky scent of nettle. This is gorgeous. More air reveals a ripe pear aroma, but everything is still imbued with that vivid freshness. The palate is pervasive, bright, streamlined and incisive, wholly unlike any other Pinot Gris. This has cut, stone, verve and immense energy with a long, absolutely citric finish. The 2023 is incredible. (Bone-dry)