Louis Latour : Vosne-Romanée 1er cru "Les Chaumes" 2020

Though supple and laced with black cherry, raspberry, violet and spice flavors, this has a solid underlying structure. Dark and a bit brooding now, this shows fine equilibrium and length. Best from 2024 through 2033. 125 cases made, 25 cases imported.

Tantalizing spiciness—allspice, clove, and a touch of cinnamon—is married to a deep well of blackberry fruit. Enormous concentration, but this is the opposite of over-extraction. Really blows out at the finish, shooting off into the distance. Drinkable now, but best from 2024.