M. Chapoutier : Le Clos 2022

Aromas of iris and carnal/animal-like notes preface the 2022 Saint-Joseph Le Clos, a dense, structured and firm Saint-Joseph with dry tannins and a short finish.

More oak work than most, but on the palate it works well, and it won't dominate by the time this is ready to drink. This is a massive, highly concentrated style of St-Joseph, with huge, punchy tannins and serious extraction. The tannins will settle in time, but will always be present and fairly domineering. It has energy, freshness, extract and structure, so will be good eventually – but be prepared to wait! Fermented in concrete, aged in barrel, 25% new.

Cask sample. A very expressive and rich nose, with iron and ferruginous notes. Inky tones and slight peppery hints as well. Olive tapenade and a weighty mid-palate. Supremely textured, the tannins are firm, very present, and slightly stalky for now. Needs a lot of time to come together. (AC)

I underestimated the 2022 Saint-Joseph Le Clos when tasting it from barrel last year. Now in bottle, we’re talking about a deeply alluring, complex red Saint-Joseph with lots of savory character. Pronounced black cherry compote, cassis pastille, licorice, cedar and a touch of violet are all intensified. Full-bodied, round and generous, the 2022 walks off the stage with utter refinement on the long, complex finale.

The textural beauty stands out, with rich, meaty chewiness to the core of black currant, singed orange peel, lavender, mocha, leather and creamy bacon fat. In beautiful harmony now, this offers years of life ahead, with salty, briny vibrancy from start to finish. Shows cigar box, baking spices and grilled mesquite, plus a pleasing blast of menthol freshness at the end, held together with fine yet present tannins. Stunning. Drink now through 2040. 3 cases imported.