M. Chapoutier : Les Greffieux 2017

The 2017 Ermitage Les Greffieux features swirling complexity on the nose and palate, with divergent yet harmonious notes of mocha, raspberries, damp humus, roasted meat and salted licorice. It’s full-bodied but reasonably plush and approachable for Hermitage, showing a more seductive face of this great vineyard.

Powerful yet restrained, very harmonious and well balanced. Spicy, with an agreeable tarry note on the nose. Rounded and full, with good concentration. This has very fine, mouth-coating tannins, and lovely fruit – perfectly ripe. Long finish. Made from over 70-year-old Syrah vines planted on glacial alluvial deposits at the foot of the hill of Hermitage, lieu-dit Les Greffieux. Completely destemmed, fermented in concrete; 70% is matured for 18 months in a large wooden tank, 30% in demi-muid, 25% of which is new oak.

A super dark-fruited Hermitage with dark stones, iodine and black cherries, laced with rich, toasted spices and roasted meat. The palate has a firmish core of rich tannin and carries ripe dark plums and blackberries in an assertive, ripe and rich style. Drink or hold.

Opaque magenta. Powerful, mineral-accented red/blue fruit liqueur, incense and potpourri aromas acquire exotic spice, cola and licorice nuances with aeration. Sappy, focused and deeply concentrated yet animated as well, offering alluringly sweet blueberry, Chambord, cassis and candied floral flavors that are given back-end cut by smoky mineral and spice flourishes. The mineral and floral notes drive an extremely long, finely etched finish, where integrated tannins provide shape and gentle grip. As is usually the case in warm vintages, this is the most elegant example of Chapoutier's Sélections Parcellaires.

More blackcurrants, black olives, garrigue, and smoked game notes emerge from the 2017 Ermitage Les Greffieux, one of the more opulent, seductive, and sexy Hermitage in the lineup. Full-bodied, powerful, and structured, it has a smoking good mid-palate, beautiful tannins, and a great finish. There are just 350 cases produced, but it’s a stunning Hermitage to drink over the coming 25–30 years.

Closer to the fruit, this is a juicy wine, yet the palate remains dense and tight: it is at the dawn of its expressions.