William Fèvre : Chablis Grand cru "Bougros Côte Bouguerots" Domaine 2020

In a sense, the 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots offers a résumé of several of Fèvre's grand cru bottlings, uniting the taut musculature of Valmur and the ethereal, mineral profile of Les Preuses, with some of the perfumed sensuality of Vaudésir and fleshy texture of Bougros. The result is certainly a very compelling wine, exhibiting aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, white flowers, freshly baked bread, oyster jus and white peach, followed by a full-bodied, taut and layered palate that's seamless and complete, concluding with a pungently mineral finish. It's worth a special effort to seek out, though a decade's patience is warmly advised.

A firm, austere white, with peach, lime and apple flavors fused to a stony mineral note. Balanced, starting out juicy and ending with a chalky sensation. Best from 2025 through 2038.

Côte Bouguerots is a cooler site down by the Serein River, with precipitous slopes of 45 degrees. An intense grand cru, with concentration from very low yields (25hl/ha), this displays a distinct savoury edge. It’s a very fine, persistent wine, with a very long future ahead.

The 2020 Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots Grand Cru has a crushed stone scented bouquet. A peppermint trace comes through with aeration. The nose is controlled and citrus-fresh, and I admire the energy. The palate is poised and concentrated, and a silver thread of acidity keeps this Grand Cru tensile and focused. Bright and lightly spiced towards the finish, this fans out with style. Excellent. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.