William Fèvre : Chablis Grand cru "Les Clos" Domaine 2023

A chalky, stony mineral element leads off, with peach, yellow plum and orange creamsicle, plus touches of herbs. This is supple and juicy, with charm through the persistent, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2034. 300 cases imported.

Year after year, Fèvre's Les Clos is among the great wines of Chablis. In 2023, the pronounced aromas range from grapefruit to nectarine and green apple, laden with pungent, salty mineral notes and a little smoky reduction—a bit of everything, really. The texture is dense, almost impenetrable at this age, but enlivened by a lovely hint of bitterness at the end. It is truly a wine for the ages. Ideally wait a decade before opening; this wine will last at least 40 years.

Derived from over 70-year-old vines at the top of a south- and southeast-facing slope, the 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos opens with a deep bouquet of orange peel, Anjou pear, beeswax and jasmine, mingling with notes of warm stones. Full-bodied, multifaceted and layered, it is concentrated and enveloping, with a muscular core balanced by ample chalky extract that imparts a sensation of freshness, laden with racy acidity and culminating in a long, saline finish. Harmonious yet built for the long term, it will richly reward patience.

Such a great Chablis Les Clos that shows very little with its huge depth of minerality. Shy, timid and discreet, with its lightly smoky minerality, seashells, lime and chopped herbs. Full-bodied but effortless and chalky with no heft to it. Long, taut and al dente. Drink from 2028.